In most of the world, goat meat is commonly consumed. Here in the United States, consumers prefer beef, pork, chicken and lamb. When I learned recently that there is a group of meat goat farmers in central New York, I was curious to learn more about this “strange” meat. Why do we shun it, and why are these farmers bucking the trend?

Two years ago, five independent goat farmers - “a bunch of good old boys trying to make connections,” according to Jim Bailey, who runs CJ Hill Farm in Palmyra - started New York Natural Chevon, LLC (NYNC), a cooperative group that pools together its resources with the aim of marketing its product and educating the public.

Currently, the majority of its customer base is ethnic groups like Mexicans and Muslims, who traditionally celebrate a variety of holidays with goat meat dishes. The farmers would like to see more Americans eat goat meat, and “to get past that old billy goat stigma that people think of, the goat tied up in the backyard, eating tin cans.”

That picture couldn't be further from the truth. All five farms are dedicated to raising only the highest quality goats, animals which are free to range about outside and have access to shelter. They are mostly fed on what they browse for themselves, supplemented with hay and grain. Hormones are never used. Many of Bailey's goats are also show-quality animals, which he rightly feels produce the best quality meat.

Whether you call it cabrito (Spanish), capretto (Italian), or - as these farmers prefer, chevon (French) - goat meat is both tasty and healthy. Goats are more closely related to deer than to say, sheep, and have a lean meat that tastes similar to venison, but sweeter.

Chevon is higher in protein and lower in calories and fat than beef, pork and lamb, and about the same as chicken. To prove their point and hopefully win converts, this past summer they set up a table at the Pride of New York booth and gave away thousands of samples of their chevon sausage.

The farm co-op raises a variety of goat breeds such as Sanaans, Savannahs, Kiko, Boer and Nubian. The farmers have breeding programs in place to determine the best crosses for meat flavor, body size, temperament, great mothering ability, easy care and outstanding kid growth.

NYNC farmers collaborate on their main product, summer sausage, available in a 8-ounce size for $7.50, which I sampled on my visit. It was delicious served along with a glass of semi-dry Reisling and cheese. It tasted just like. ... hearty flavorful sausage, with no hint of a “goaty” or “barnyard-y” residue.

A variety of cuts of chevon are also available from NYNC (call for pricing): ribeye, sirloin, flank, shoulder, loin chops or even half or full animals.

Because chevon is so lean, it will get tough and dry if cooked like beef at a high temperature. Therefore, the two basic cooking rules are No. 1, cook the meat slowly at a low temperature (roasted or broiled); No 2., use a moist heat technique such as braising or stewing (or try a crock pot).

This past Monday, the regional food-, farmer- and winery-promoting organization, Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty (http://flcb.org), held its winter meeting at Casa Larga Winery in Fairport. NYNC donated two entire animals, which Chef Greg Broman used to prepare a winter cassoulet - a French stew using chevon and local organic beans.

Since New York Natural Chevon is a new venture, and does not yet have a storefront or Web site, the best way to order meat and sausage is to contact them directly via phone or e-mail (see sidebar). While you should allow a few weeks in advance to allow for processing and shipping, the good news is that fresh chevon is available all year round; unlike other livestock, there is no set season for kidding or butchering.

The NYNC farmers find there's a taste for all ages and sizes of goat, too, be it a big buck or a small kid.

You may also sample the chevon sausage at a local winery or restaurant, another of NYNC's target markets. Keuka Spring Winery in Penn Yan' Glenora Wine Cellars in Dundee, on the west side of Seneca Lake, and Rogue's Harbor in Lansing all carry the product.

“We recommend a wine pairing with our Gewrztraminer, since the richness of the wine matches the spice and flavor of the sausage,” says Jeanne Wiltberger, promotions manager at Keuka Spring Winery. “We had it for sale in our tasting room and already sold out of it. A lot of our customers like to come and buy some crackers, cheese, sausage and a bottle of wine and sit outside on the patio, which has a great view of Keuka Lake.”

Both Jim Bailey and Norm Paeth, of TeePee Farm in Holley, got into commercial chevon farming post-retirement. Paeth used to raise and show dairy goats as a hobby when his children were young.

Mary Stanton of Goat Bridge Farm (goatbridgefarm.com) in Walworth, has a slightly different story. Stanton - along with her husband, Bob - not only raises goats, she is also a published mystery novel writer, both under her own name and the pen name Claudia Bishop. In fact, her interest and experience with goat farming is the feature of one of her most recent novels, “The Case of the Ill-Gotten Goat,” which takes place in a fictional Finger Lakes village. Soon she will be starting a new series called “The Grouchy Gourmet,” the first book which - you guessed it - will feature goat. Learn more about Stanton, her goats, books, blog and recipes at www.claudiabishop.com.

Julia Reich, of Scipio Center is owner of Julia Reich Design, a graphic design studio, and self-proclaimed “foodie,” with interests in cooking (and eating)