Judy Sarasohn
The Washington Post
An occasional series in which staff members share a recipe that we turn to time and again:
Like many American Jews, I grew up on a steady diet of Chinese restaurant food. My interest in the cuisine and all things Chinese grew, and cooking became a hobby.
Although I now keep to the basics of spaghetti, roast chicken and broiled fish during the week, I enjoy cooking a Chinese feast for 10 or so friends and relatives on some weekends. It's not as daunting as it sounds, although it does require a commitment of a day for chopping and organizing ingredients.
The trick to preparing a Chinese banquet at home is including a couple of easy dishes that can be served cold or done in advance and tucked in the oven to reheat. Believe it or not, I've found that one of those easy dishes is Peking duck.
Usually considered the height of elegance, the duck prepared in restaurants is also usually the most expensive of dishes, often sold for $26 to $30.
Making it at home is far from cheap, but it becomes more of an affordable luxury at $15 to $20 for a five-pound duck, depending on sales at the grocery store.
I took a lesson in making Peking duck - crisp skin, thin pancake wraps and all - some 15 years ago from Joan Shih, who teaches Chinese cooking in Silver Spring, Md. It turned out to be so simple that now I only roughly follow a recipe drawn mostly from memory, adding honey and wine if more marinade seems necessary. The pancakes for serving are difficult to make just right, so fragile that they are cooked two at a time and then pulled apart.
After proving once that I could do it, I now rely on store-bought pancakes (Asian markets carry them, sometimes frozen) that need only steaming before serving.
The other issue is finding a place to hang the duck.
The day before the meal, the duck is scalded for a few minutes and then rubbed on the outside with a mixture of honey, dry sherry or wine, minced ginger and chopped scallions. Then it must hang over a pan overnight to catch the drippings until it is time to roast it in the oven (about an hour before serving). Hanging the bird extracts fat; also, the scalding and marinade make the skin so crisp and delectable that it is served as a separate course at Chinese banquets.
The traditional method of making Peking duck calls for inserting a tube or straw under the skin of the duck's neck, then blowing in air to separate the skin and flesh, so that the skin becomes especially crisp and the remaining fat can render and baste the meat during the roasting.
Ken Hom and Harvey Steiman write in “Chinese Technique” (Simon and Schuster, 1981) that a sorghum stalk usually is used as a tube for blowing but that “an air compressor or a bicycle pump is more effective.” As an alternative, they suggest massaging the duck slowly to work the skin away from the subcutaneous layer of fat.
Many of the Chinese cookbooks I've seen dismiss the inflation step as unnecessarily burdensome for the modern home cook.
When I asked Shih about it recently, she explained that it is often difficult to buy ducks in the United States with their heads and necks left on.
If you can find a whole bird and want to go the extra yard for crisp skin, remember to tie off the tail vent before you start puffing, and then tie off the neck. Inflate the duck before the scalding step.
The first time I made Peking duck on my own, I lived in a one-bedroom co-op in D.C. that had a small galley kitchen. I loved my old building, which had plenty of character, and I loved the neighborhood, but not the roaches that were nearly impossible to eliminate for any length of time.
Although I was not worried about the possible health consequences of eating a duck that had been left hanging, unrefrigerated, for 24 hours, I couldn't bear the idea of walking into my kitchen to find roaches sticking to its honeyed skin.
As an experienced urban dweller, however, I knew the power of light. After hanging the duck from a cabinet handle conveniently located over the sink, I left the kitchen lights on all night to discourage roaches from coming out to play.
I slept poorly, due to the anxiety. So every couple of hours, I got up and banged on the wall separating the kitchen from a narrow hallway, shouting “Stay away!” to my “roommates.”
It worked. No roaches.
A half-hour before my guests came, I popped the bird in the oven, checking occasionally over the next hour to siphon off excess fat. I steamed a stack of store-bought pancakes and carved the finished duck.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
For a duck to be served right out of the oven at a Chinese-style banquet, start roasting 30 minutes before guests come - or even later, depending on when the bird will be served.
Carving the finished duck requires a very sharp knife and patience, and perhaps a flair for the dramatic. A thoroughly trimmed carcass can be used to make a flavorful soup.
Serve with hoisin sauce and steamed, crepe-style Asian pancakes (figure about 2 per person), the kind used for wrapping, in addition to the scallions and cucumber. The sauce is available at Asian markets and on the international aisle of some larger grocery stores; the pancakes are available in the freezer section of Asian markets.
1 1/2-inch piece ginger root, cut into 6 slices (peeled or unpeeled), then cut 4 of the slices into julienne (very thin strips)
1 5-pound whole (Pekin) duck, preferably fresh (may use defrosted duck); 1/2 inch of the wing tips discarded
1/4 cup honey
2 scallions, white and light-green parts, coarsely chopped, plus 2 bunches scallions for serving
1/2 cup dry sherry or dry white wine
Seedless cucumbers (optional), peeled and cut into julienne
Store-bought hoisin sauce, for serving
Store-bought Peking duck wrappers (pancakes), for serving, such as Wei-Chan brand
Fill a tall stockpot with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the 2 slices of the ginger. Carefully lower the duck into the water and parboil for a few minutes, making sure that it stays submerged. Remove and transfer to a colander to drain and cool while you make the marinade.
Mince the remaining julienne ginger slices and place in a medium bowl, along with the honey, chopped scallions and sherry or wine, stirring to form a marinade. Rub the mixture into the skin of duck, making sure to coat it completely on all sides.
Hang the duck by its legs over a pan to catch the drippings, for at least 6 to 8 hours and up to 12 hours (overnight; do not refrigerate).
Fill a large bowl with ice water.
Cut the remaining scallions into 2-inch lengths, discarding the dark-green parts.
Trim the root ends, then make cuts at the end of the white part and place in the water to soak.
The ends should open slightly, like a flower, to form scallion “brushes.” (These will be used to brush the hoisin sauce on the pancakes and then will be wrapped and eaten with the duck. An alternative is to serve the scallions shredded.)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees; place the coated duck breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Pour water in the bottom of the pan (enough to cover the bottom but not enough to come close to the bottom of the duck).
Place the duck in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 350 degrees. Roast for about 1 hour, until browned and the meat is no longer pink and any juices run clear.
Carve the duck before serving; you'll need a big platter and a very sharp knife.
Carefully cut away the crisp skin in 2- by 1-inch pieces, avoiding any of the meat or remaining fat. Line the edges of the platter with the pieces.
Cut the legs and wings; set aside.
Cut the duck breast in slices that are about the same size as the pieces of crisp skin; place in the center of the platter. Arrange the legs and wings at opposite ends of the breast meat to regain a semblance of the original shape of the duck. Trim any remaining fat from the duck and then carve thin slices of meat, laying them on the platter inside the circle of skin.
Place the platter on the table, along with dishes containing the scallions, hoisin sauce and the pancakes. To assemble a wrap: Place a dollop of hoisin sauce at the center of a steamed pancake, add a piece of crisp skin and a piece of the duck meat.
Top with a scallion brush and some cucumber. Roll up like a cone or stuffed crepe, with one end (on the bottom) tucked in. Serve warm.
NUTRITION Per serving (duck only; based on 6): 361 calories, 37 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 206 mg cholesterol, 129 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber
- Adapted from a recipe by Chinese cooking teacher Joan Shih in Silver Spring, Md.
An occasional series in which staff members share a recipe that we turn to time and again:
Like many American Jews, I grew up on a steady diet of Chinese restaurant food. My interest in the cuisine and all things Chinese grew, and cooking became a hobby.
Although I now keep to the basics of spaghetti, roast chicken and broiled fish during the week, I enjoy cooking a Chinese feast for 10 or so friends and relatives on some weekends. It's not as daunting as it sounds, although it does require a commitment of a day for chopping and organizing ingredients.
The trick to preparing a Chinese banquet at home is including a couple of easy dishes that can be served cold or done in advance and tucked in the oven to reheat. Believe it or not, I've found that one of those easy dishes is Peking duck.
Usually considered the height of elegance, the duck prepared in restaurants is also usually the most expensive of dishes, often sold for $26 to $30.
Making it at home is far from cheap, but it becomes more of an affordable luxury at $15 to $20 for a five-pound duck, depending on sales at the grocery store.
I took a lesson in making Peking duck - crisp skin, thin pancake wraps and all - some 15 years ago from Joan Shih, who teaches Chinese cooking in Silver Spring, Md. It turned out to be so simple that now I only roughly follow a recipe drawn mostly from memory, adding honey and wine if more marinade seems necessary. The pancakes for serving are difficult to make just right, so fragile that they are cooked two at a time and then pulled apart.
After proving once that I could do it, I now rely on store-bought pancakes (Asian markets carry them, sometimes frozen) that need only steaming before serving.
The other issue is finding a place to hang the duck.
The day before the meal, the duck is scalded for a few minutes and then rubbed on the outside with a mixture of honey, dry sherry or wine, minced ginger and chopped scallions. Then it must hang over a pan overnight to catch the drippings until it is time to roast it in the oven (about an hour before serving). Hanging the bird extracts fat; also, the scalding and marinade make the skin so crisp and delectable that it is served as a separate course at Chinese banquets.
The traditional method of making Peking duck calls for inserting a tube or straw under the skin of the duck's neck, then blowing in air to separate the skin and flesh, so that the skin becomes especially crisp and the remaining fat can render and baste the meat during the roasting.
Ken Hom and Harvey Steiman write in “Chinese Technique” (Simon and Schuster, 1981) that a sorghum stalk usually is used as a tube for blowing but that “an air compressor or a bicycle pump is more effective.” As an alternative, they suggest massaging the duck slowly to work the skin away from the subcutaneous layer of fat.
Many of the Chinese cookbooks I've seen dismiss the inflation step as unnecessarily burdensome for the modern home cook.
When I asked Shih about it recently, she explained that it is often difficult to buy ducks in the United States with their heads and necks left on.
If you can find a whole bird and want to go the extra yard for crisp skin, remember to tie off the tail vent before you start puffing, and then tie off the neck. Inflate the duck before the scalding step.
The first time I made Peking duck on my own, I lived in a one-bedroom co-op in D.C. that had a small galley kitchen. I loved my old building, which had plenty of character, and I loved the neighborhood, but not the roaches that were nearly impossible to eliminate for any length of time.
Although I was not worried about the possible health consequences of eating a duck that had been left hanging, unrefrigerated, for 24 hours, I couldn't bear the idea of walking into my kitchen to find roaches sticking to its honeyed skin.
As an experienced urban dweller, however, I knew the power of light. After hanging the duck from a cabinet handle conveniently located over the sink, I left the kitchen lights on all night to discourage roaches from coming out to play.
I slept poorly, due to the anxiety. So every couple of hours, I got up and banged on the wall separating the kitchen from a narrow hallway, shouting “Stay away!” to my “roommates.”
It worked. No roaches.
A half-hour before my guests came, I popped the bird in the oven, checking occasionally over the next hour to siphon off excess fat. I steamed a stack of store-bought pancakes and carved the finished duck.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
For a duck to be served right out of the oven at a Chinese-style banquet, start roasting 30 minutes before guests come - or even later, depending on when the bird will be served.
Carving the finished duck requires a very sharp knife and patience, and perhaps a flair for the dramatic. A thoroughly trimmed carcass can be used to make a flavorful soup.
Serve with hoisin sauce and steamed, crepe-style Asian pancakes (figure about 2 per person), the kind used for wrapping, in addition to the scallions and cucumber. The sauce is available at Asian markets and on the international aisle of some larger grocery stores; the pancakes are available in the freezer section of Asian markets.
1 1/2-inch piece ginger root, cut into 6 slices (peeled or unpeeled), then cut 4 of the slices into julienne (very thin strips)
1 5-pound whole (Pekin) duck, preferably fresh (may use defrosted duck); 1/2 inch of the wing tips discarded
1/4 cup honey
2 scallions, white and light-green parts, coarsely chopped, plus 2 bunches scallions for serving
1/2 cup dry sherry or dry white wine
Seedless cucumbers (optional), peeled and cut into julienne
Store-bought hoisin sauce, for serving
Store-bought Peking duck wrappers (pancakes), for serving, such as Wei-Chan brand
Fill a tall stockpot with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the 2 slices of the ginger. Carefully lower the duck into the water and parboil for a few minutes, making sure that it stays submerged. Remove and transfer to a colander to drain and cool while you make the marinade.
Mince the remaining julienne ginger slices and place in a medium bowl, along with the honey, chopped scallions and sherry or wine, stirring to form a marinade. Rub the mixture into the skin of duck, making sure to coat it completely on all sides.
Hang the duck by its legs over a pan to catch the drippings, for at least 6 to 8 hours and up to 12 hours (overnight; do not refrigerate).
Fill a large bowl with ice water.
Cut the remaining scallions into 2-inch lengths, discarding the dark-green parts.
Trim the root ends, then make cuts at the end of the white part and place in the water to soak.
The ends should open slightly, like a flower, to form scallion “brushes.” (These will be used to brush the hoisin sauce on the pancakes and then will be wrapped and eaten with the duck. An alternative is to serve the scallions shredded.)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees; place the coated duck breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Pour water in the bottom of the pan (enough to cover the bottom but not enough to come close to the bottom of the duck).
Place the duck in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 350 degrees. Roast for about 1 hour, until browned and the meat is no longer pink and any juices run clear.
Carve the duck before serving; you'll need a big platter and a very sharp knife.
Carefully cut away the crisp skin in 2- by 1-inch pieces, avoiding any of the meat or remaining fat. Line the edges of the platter with the pieces.
Cut the legs and wings; set aside.
Cut the duck breast in slices that are about the same size as the pieces of crisp skin; place in the center of the platter. Arrange the legs and wings at opposite ends of the breast meat to regain a semblance of the original shape of the duck. Trim any remaining fat from the duck and then carve thin slices of meat, laying them on the platter inside the circle of skin.
Place the platter on the table, along with dishes containing the scallions, hoisin sauce and the pancakes. To assemble a wrap: Place a dollop of hoisin sauce at the center of a steamed pancake, add a piece of crisp skin and a piece of the duck meat.
Top with a scallion brush and some cucumber. Roll up like a cone or stuffed crepe, with one end (on the bottom) tucked in. Serve warm.
NUTRITION Per serving (duck only; based on 6): 361 calories, 37 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 206 mg cholesterol, 129 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber
- Adapted from a recipe by Chinese cooking teacher Joan Shih in Silver Spring, Md.
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