Onion cornerstone of tasty dishes

By Valerie Usowski

Wednesday, August 13, 2008 11:58 PM EDT

Cooking without onions is like leaving your house without any underwear on.
You can get away with it, but are you sure you want to?

Onions are underground bulbs of the Allium genus related to lilies and garlic. They are one of the oldest vegetables, dating back to 5000 BC. Onions have been worshipped and adorned by some of the most prolific cultures of the world. Ancient Egyptians were buried with onions so that the scent would “bring breath back to the dead.” They also believed that the rings symbolized eternal life and the universe.

Grecians ate onions to “lighten the balance of blood,” and Romans rubbed them on their bodies to firm up their muscles. Even the Welsh wore leeks on their helmets to help them in war.

Onions can be split into two categories: dried or fresh. Dry onions are usually what we think about when someone says onion. They are the dried mature version of the fresh onion with a papery skin and tight layers of flesh. They come in a multitude of shapes, colors and sizes.

When buying onions, choose spotless, dry, odorless, sprout-less onions that seem heavy for their size, and store them in a cool dry place with good air circulation. After preparing, refrigerate any unused portion and use in a timely manner.

The most common is the yellow onion (yellow globe) making up more than 75 percent of the world's production. It is an all purpose onion used in cooking and is available year round. The yellow onion has the most sulfur of all the onions and will most likely make you cry when it is chopped.

If you have had a problem with tearing when preparing onions, you can try chilling them, running them under cool water while peeling or some people swear that having a lit candle/burner helps in removing the irritating gas emitted by the onion. This seems like more effort than necessary, so I recommend just using a sharp knife (dull knives crush the layers and release more of the tear gas) or a food processor and deal with some discomfort.

Everyone needs a good cry once in awhile.

White onions, Bermuda onions, and Spanish onions are also used as aromatics in cooking like the yellow onions but do not have as pungent of a smell. They also tend to cost more.

The Spanish onions (available August through May) are larger and sweeter, and the white onion (available year round) is a moderate size with a clean yet tangy flavor. These onions are better used when they are a featured ingredient like in a caramelized onion tart or when fried with peppers for sausage sandwiches.

Bermuda onions (available March through June) have a sweet mild flavor, which make them great for onion rings.

Sweet onions like the Georgian Vidalia, the Washington Walla Walla and the Hawaiian Maui are known for their regional names, their crispness and their mild flavor. Perfect when eaten on a burger or in a salad, the high water content of these onions contribute to their favorable factors but also make them more prone to spoilage.

One of the sweetest onions is the South American Oso Sweet, which has 50 percent more sugar than the Vidalia.

Red onions are also eaten raw for their sweetness and vibrant color. They are tasty in ceviche, citrus marinated raw fish or panzanella, Italian bread salad.

Pearl onions are also in the dry category. They are often pickled or creamed and have a mild flavor. Pearl onions are used as a garnish in cocktails.

Boiling onions are also small in size and mild in flavor and are best used in stews or pickled.

The Italian cippoline onions are small with a flat round shape. They are delicious when roasted and served with beef as a sweet and sour side dish.

Lastly of the common dry onions, shallots are the finest and have the most delicate flavor. They grow similar to garlic - multiple cloves - and are best used for pan sauces and dressings.

Fresh onions like scallions (shoots of white onions only) and ramps can be eaten both raw and cooked. These onions should have small bulbs and long green unwilted stalks and should be stored in the refrigerator. They are a welcome addition to stir-fries, soups and grilled salads as well as crudite platters (raw vegetables).

Ramps are pricier and stronger in flavor than scallions and grow wild.

Leeks look like giant scallions. Smaller leeks are preferable because they are more tender. All leeks need to be cleaned thoroughly of the dirt trapped between the leaf layers. Slit the leeks down the middle and rinse in cool water until clean. Leeks are good in soups and stews.

Sliced, diced, julienne ... deep-fried, stir-fried, stewed, sauteed, baked, braised or raw, the onion is the cornerstone of some of the tastiest dishes that we make in the kitchen.

Soups and stocks are classically started with a mirepoix; a trio of onions, carrots and celery.

Spanish Caribbean cuisine uses sofrito; a blend of onions, green pepper, garlic, cilantro and parsley, to flavor soups, sauces and meat dishes.

Onions are a staple in Indian cuisine and are commonly used as a base in curries.

The main three ingredients in Asian cookery are ginger, garlic and scallions.

Not convinced yet to cook with onions? Add sauteed onions to half of anything that you are cooking for dinner and do a side by side comparison. You be the judge.

Valerie Usowski, an Auburn native, is the banquet manager at the Auburn Holiday Inn and a Culinary Institute of America graduate.

The Citizens' Say

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There are 1 comment(s)

Greyghost wrote on Aug 14, 2008 7:51 PM:

" Have you never had a Texas "1015" onion
or a "Texas Sweet" onion?

All I can say is you don't know what you are missing.

Tom Bosse "

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