Salad from the ground up

By Valerie Usowski

Wednesday, April 9, 2008 11:48 AM EDT

Warm weather is approaching and what better time to get reacquainted with our gardens and produce sections. After a winter of carb laden comfort foods, we can transition into lighter, healthier fare.
Salads have become more popular and have moved from the side dish category to the main entree. Salads can be separated into two groups; mixed or composed.

A mixed salad is just as you would expect, mixed greens and vegetables tossed with a dressing like a Caesar. A composed salad is a tad bit more complex. The composed salad usually has a selection of cooked meats, boiled eggs, cooked potatoes or cheeses and is arranged in a very appetizing manner; think a Cobb salad.

To make a great salad, either mixed or composed, we need to understand the building blocks that really make it great. The main component of any salad are the greens. Base lettuces such as the mild crispy iceberg, slightly bitter elongated romaine or the soft buttery butterhead (Boston and Bibb) lend to the direction of flavor/texture of the intended result. Greens should be crisp and tightly layered with a good green color.

The secondary level of a salad introduces variety in color, texture, taste and shape. Red and green leaf lettuces are tender and mild. Oak leaf lettuce and mache add a tender nutty flavor.

The lesser unknown third level of a salad is where the “zip” comes from. This zip includes: Arugula, watercress, Belgian endive, radicchio, amaranth, mizuna or frisee. Arugula, also called rocket and water cress, is mustard greens with a bitter peppery flavor. The endive family includes the deep red headed radicchio and the football shaped Belgian endive. All are bitter and can be cooked to minimize their bitterness. Amaranth, once considered a weed, has a slight sweet flavor and is high in protein. Lastly mizuna and frisee (chicory) are delicate looking compliments to increase the appearance and taste of the salad.

Mesclun mix is a combination of small salad greens like most of the greens in the third level plus additions like tangy dandelion greens and the mild sorrel of the buckwheat family.

Some cooks enjoy putting herbs and flowers in their salads for an extra bonus.

Now that we know what greens we will be using, the preparation comes next. Separate greens into leaves and trim off the stems and damaged parts. Clean in cold water and thoroughly dry either with paper towels or in a salad spinner, drying the lettuce will allow it to last longer and the dressing will cling better to the leaves. Store in refrigerator until ready to use.

Salad greens are not suitable for freezing due to their high water content. Salads are easier to eat when the leaves are cut or torn into bite size pieces. Tearing has a more natural look but cutting with a sharp stainless steel knife will not bruise or discolor the leaves and gives a composed salad a uniform finished look.

Toppings for salads are as endless as your imagination. Other than the traditional standbys of cucumber, tomatoes, carrots and olives, venture into adding nuts, dried or fresh fruit, a variety of cheeses, quality meats and cooked vegetables.

A personal favorite of mine begins with romaine lettuce mixed with red delicious apples, pepper jack cheese, Craisins, crispy chow mein noodles and a good balsamic vinaigrette. Cheap vinegar lacks the pungent sweetness of good quality vinegar and can overpower the delicate flavor of some of the lighter greens. Also, an aged vinegar is a good investment because only a small bit is necessary to add flavor and it will last for a considerable amount of time. Vinaigrettes should be poured over the salad just before serving to maintain the crispness of the lettuces.

Cooked legumes (beans and lentils) make a salad more substantial, and cooked seafood adds an elegant flair.

Prepared salad items definitely have their place at the table. Hearts of romaine, usually packaged in bundles of three, give the customer quality without the waste of damaged leaves. Bottled salad dressings are good for a quick fix and help cut down the need for multiple ingredients in your pantry. They can also be doctored up with other items for added flavor.

Bulk mesclun mix sold in the baskets at the grocery store are fine as long as they smell fresh, aren't filmy and have been washed thoroughly. Lastly, premixed precut salad blends are (in my opinion) less than satisfactory. Unless you plan on using the entire contents in one day, the mix will turn brown in two days even under the best conditions. Since the mixes are pre-made, there is a higher risk of contamination, so be wary and wash even though the bag says you don't have to.

A restaurant secret to washing your lettuces is to add a drop or two of dish detergent. It is absolutely no different than washing your dishes or glassware - just make sure you rinse the greens completely. Enjoy.

Valerie Usowski , an Auburn native, is currently banquet manager at the Auburn Holiday Inn and a Culinary Institute of America graduate.

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