If you have never had a popover then you are in for a treat.

Popovers are about as close as you can get to eating clouds. They are truly a comfort food. A popover is an American adaptation of Britain's yorkshire pudding. It is a light, hollow roll made from an eggy batter.

The name came because they “pop” up and over the pan as they bake. Popovers enter the oven as puddles of batter but bake up into wonderful, buttery, puffs.

Popovers are a miracle of baking science. No baking soda, no baking powder, no fluffy eggs whites, and yet they puff up to incredible heights. The high proportion of liquid in the batter creates steam that causes the popovers to puff up. The conversion of the liquid in the batter to steam is dramatic. One part liquid converts to 1,600 parts steam. The egg protein causes the popover batter to stretch, hold the steam and solidify to form crusty walls.

Popovers are relatively low in fat and require very few ingredients. They have a slightly crisp exterior that opens to reveal a tender, custardy interior. With jam or honey, they make a great breakfast and can also be served plain or with butter as an accompaniment to a savory meal. They are excellent for sopping up gravies and sauces, as well. The basic recipe can easily be modified with herbs, spices, extracts and other flavorings for variety.

Although popovers are easy to make, they can be sensitive to certain critical cooking errors.

Always use all-purpose flour, not bread or cake flour. Unbleached flour is better than bleached.

Be sure that your eggs are the size called for in the recipe. Too much egg yolk can keep the popovers from rising. For best results, measure your eggs. One large egg is equal to 1/4 cup. If you use egg substitutes in popovers, they will lose their puff.

The popovers rise better if the batter is at room temperature. Warm the milk and eggs in the microwave or on the stove for a few seconds before adding them to the dry ingredients. Mix all the wet ingredients together, mix the dry ingredients together, then whisk the two together until slightly lumpy. Don't over do it. Mixing too much will develop the gluten in the batter, and the recipe just won't work right

Preheat the oven until the oven thermometer says it is the right temperature. Preheat the popover pan on top of a baking sheet in the oven until hot. The baking sheet boosts the bottom heat, which helps the popovers rise.

Make sure you don't dally around once you take the preheated pan out of the oven. It can quickly lose the heat that it has retained.

Pour the batter into a large liquid measuring cup, take the preheated pan out of the oven, then quickly pour the batter into the popover cups and get that pan back into the oven.

Move the oven rack to a lower slot to keep the tops from over browning. If you leave one of the cups of the popover pan empty, fill it half full of water. This will help protect the pan from the high heat.

Now the main tip and the hardest to do is DON'T PEEK! Remember, popovers are leavened by steam. Heat is required for the rising of the popovers. If you open the oven door, the heat escapes, the oven cools down, the steam inside the popovers condenses and the popovers collapse. So, don't peek for at least the first half hour of baking.

Leave the popovers in the oven until the sides are firm and crusty. If they are taken out of the oven too soon, the popovers collapse and lose their magnificent puffs.

If you leave the popovers sitting in the pan after removing them from the oven, they tend to get soggy. One way to prevent sogginess is to slit the popovers with a knife five minutes before the end of baking to release the steam. Be careful. The popovers are extremely hot fresh out of the oven, due to the steam. Above all, have fun, they may take a little practice, but the end result will be worth it. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Lemon Scented Popovers

Makes 6 popovers

1 cup sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 cup milk

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Melted butter, for brushing

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Heat a six-cup muffin tin, greased well with the melted butter, in the oven for 5 minutes while you mix the batter.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla and zest. When smooth, whisk in flour and salt.

Remove heated muffin tin from oven and quickly divide the batter into the muffin cups. Bake for 20 minutes at 450 degrees, then use a sharp knife to poke a small hole in the top of each popover to release steam and prevent them from deflating and reduce oven heat to 375 degrees. Bake for an additional 15 minutes, until

golden brown and crisp.

Basic Popovers

Makes 6 popovers

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, room temperature

1 cup milk

Melted butter, for brushing

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Grease a six-cup muffin tin well with the melted butter and place in a preheated oven for 1-2 minutes.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and salt. Sift flour over mixture and whisk until smooth.

Remove heated muffin tin from oven and divide the batter evenly into the buttered muffin cups.

Bake for 20 minutes at 425 degrees, then rotate the pan (to ensure even cooking) and reduce oven heat to 350 degrees.

Bake for an additional 10 minutes, until golden brown and crisp.

Remove from pan and cool on a wire rack.