Winter squash was not something that I was familiar with growing up. My experience with winter squash consisted of carving a pumpkin at Halloween. Summer squash or zucchini was popular, but that was something that we grew in the garden and marveled at when it grew to gigantic proportions.
The terms summer and winter squash date back to a time when the seasons were more crucial to man's survival than they are now. “Good keepers” became known as winter vegetables if they would “keep” until December. Summer vegetables were harvested and eaten immediately. Today both varieties are available most of the year.
Winter squash has been part of the daily life and religion of the people of both North and South America for centuries. The shape, size and color of the squash made its use not only as a vegetable, but the base for many objects as well. The shape of the squash determined the function. They were used as canteens, pots, lunch pails, containers to collect rain water, rattles and works of art.
The squash played a major role in Native American agriculture and culture. Along with corn and beans, the squash meant survival. It was venerated and many ceremonies were held at sowing and harvest times.
There are many varieties of squash and most are interchangeable in recipes.
Acorn has a shape true to its name and a deep green color.
Buttercup is a turban-shaped squash that has a slightly flat top. The skin should be a dark green. Flavor is sweet, with a creamy texture, although this squash can sometimes be a bit dry.
Butternut is a peachy-beige with a neck that can be either thick or thin. Smaller, thinner butternuts are easier to work with. They taste nutty and sweet.
Delicata is a long green or orange variety striped with white. It is also called sweet potato squash because its flesh is creamy and similar to sweet potatoes.
Kabocha or Japanese pumpkin is small and round, with a dark green knobby skin. Commonly used as a tempura vegetable, it is sweet and slightly drier than other squashes.
Whatever type of squash you choose, select ones that feel heavy for their size and that are not bruised. Depending on the variety, the color of the squash is also a great indicator of ripeness.
Squash like butternut and pumpkin should not have tinges of green on the main part of the rind. Varieties like buttercup and acorn should be a deep green, with only a spot of orange from where they were laying on the ground.
Whole squash will keep for several months in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area . After it is cooked and peeled, it freezes very well.
If you're new to cooking squash, start by trying a butternut squash. Butternut is the easiest to peel, and has a smooth texture. The nutty taste of the meat makes it perfect for a wide variety of dishes, from soups to a simple gratin. I have included two recipes that use butternut squash. One is for a soup and one is for a delicious gratin. Both are easy to make and good.
I want to take a minute to tell all our readers how thankful we are for their continued interest and support. Doing this column is wonderful, and your positive comments and e-mails make it so rewarding. We hope you have a wonderful and joyous holiday.
Enjoy.
This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net
Butternut Squash Gratin with Rosemary Breadcrumbs
Makes 10 servings
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
4 cups thinly sliced onions (about 1 pound)
2 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
3/4 cup canned low-salt chicken broth
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs made from soft white bread
2 cups (packed) grated sharp white cheddar cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; saute until onions are light golden, about 8 minutes. Add squash; saute 4 minutes. Sprinkle sugar, salt and pepper over vegetables; saute until onions and squash begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes.
Spread vegetable mixture in prepared dish. Pour chicken broth over. Cover tightly with foil and bake 45 minutes. (Squash mixture can be made a day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Reheat in 350 degree oven until heated through, about 10 minutes.)
Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Mix breadcrumbs, cheese, rosemary and thyme in medium bowl. Sprinkle over gratin. Bake uncovered until top is golden brown and crisp, about 30 minutes.
- Source: Bon Appetit, November 2000
Green Beans Amandine with Leek Chips
Makes 8 to 10 servings
For the leek chips
4 medium leeks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For the green beans
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sliced (skin-on) almonds
2 small cloves garlic, minced or crushed (about 2 teaspoons)
2 1/2 to 3 pounds green beans (ends trimmed, optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
For the leek chips: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with aluminum foil and lightly grease with nonstick cooking oil spray.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and place a large colander in
the sink.
Remove and discard the darker leek leaves; trim and discard 1/4 inch from the root ends. Cut the leeks crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Use your fingers to separate the slices into rings and drop them into the bowl of water; swish them around vigorously for a few minutes to remove all sand and grit. Transfer the cleaned rings to the colander as you work.
When all the leeks are cleaned, pat them dry and spread evenly on the foil-lined baking sheets, drizzle with the oil and toss to coat evenly. Bake, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 60 minutes or until the rings are golden brown and crisp; because the rings are different sizes, some will be done sooner than others (some may take as long as 1 hour and 20 minutes). As they are done, transfer to a large plate and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and store at room temperature until ready to use.
For the green beans: Place a large colander in the sink. Bring a large pot of (unsalted) water to boil over high heat. Meanwhile, place a large, deep skillet over medium heat for 1 minute, then add the oil and the butter. When the butter has melted, reduce the heat to low and add the almonds. Cook, stirring often, for 6 to 8 minutes or until the almonds give off a toasty aroma. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and set aside.
When the water comes to a boil, add the green beans (you may have to do this in 2 batches); return to a full boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pot and let the beans sit for 4 to 5 minutes or until they turn bright green and are slightly tender but still crisp. Drain in the colander (repeat the process if necessary).
Return the skillet with the almonds and garlic to the stove over medium-low heat. Add the drained green beans; use tongs to turn them so that the beans are evenly coated. Before serving, sprinkle with the salt. Transfer to a serving dish and top with the leek chips. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Curried Butternut Squash Soup
Makes 6 servings
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil
1 cup chopped onions
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Red (cayenne) pepper to taste
2 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, halved lengthwise and sliced thin
3 cups vegetable or chicken broth
3 cups water
1 pound tart apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat olive or vegetable oil. Add onion and saute until golden brown. Add garlic, curry powder, cumin and cayenne pepper; cook, stirring constantly, 30 seconds. Add squash, vegetable or chicken broth, water and apples. Bring liquid to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, 25 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove from heat and cool 15 to 20 minutes.
Puree mixture in a blender or food processor, in batches, and transfer back into soup pot. Season with salt and pepper.
At this point, soup may be refrigerated until ready to serve.
To serve, warm over low heat, stirring until hot. Remove from heat and serve in soup bowls.
Pasta with Creamy Pumpkin Sauce
Makes 4 servings
When life hands you canned pumpkin on sale, make dinner with it as well as Thanksgiving dessert.
The flavors here - pumpkin, dairy, sage, a touch of Parmesan cheese - are what you might find in pumpkin-filled ravioli. But the effect is lighter; the squash becomes a subtle, can't-quite-place-it ingredient in this pale orange sauce.
We replaced the original recipe's cream with low-fat milk, and the sauce remained rich tasting.
Feel free to toss some toasted, chopped walnuts on top.
Serve with steamed broccoli.
8 to 10 ounces multigrain angel-hair pasta, such as Barilla brand
1 medium shallot
3 medium cloves garlic
2 sprigs sage leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin puree
3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup low-fat milk
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions (6 to 7 minutes).
Meanwhile, mince the shallot and garlic; finely chop the sage.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
Add the shallot and garlic; cook for 3 minutes, stirring, until they have softened.
Add the pumpkin puree, chicken broth, milk and half of the sage.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce is slightly thickened.
Season with salt and pepper to taste; keep warm on the lowest setting.
Drain the pasta and add to the sauce, then add 2 tablespoons of the cheese and mix well.
Divide among individual plates and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese and the remaining sage.
Nutrition Per serving: 296 calories, 15 g protein, 46 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 190 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber
- Adapted from “The Ski House Cookbook” by Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo (Clarkson Potter, 2007).
Winter squash has been part of the daily life and religion of the people of both North and South America for centuries. The shape, size and color of the squash made its use not only as a vegetable, but the base for many objects as well. The shape of the squash determined the function. They were used as canteens, pots, lunch pails, containers to collect rain water, rattles and works of art.
The squash played a major role in Native American agriculture and culture. Along with corn and beans, the squash meant survival. It was venerated and many ceremonies were held at sowing and harvest times.
There are many varieties of squash and most are interchangeable in recipes.
Acorn has a shape true to its name and a deep green color.
Buttercup is a turban-shaped squash that has a slightly flat top. The skin should be a dark green. Flavor is sweet, with a creamy texture, although this squash can sometimes be a bit dry.
Butternut is a peachy-beige with a neck that can be either thick or thin. Smaller, thinner butternuts are easier to work with. They taste nutty and sweet.
Delicata is a long green or orange variety striped with white. It is also called sweet potato squash because its flesh is creamy and similar to sweet potatoes.
Kabocha or Japanese pumpkin is small and round, with a dark green knobby skin. Commonly used as a tempura vegetable, it is sweet and slightly drier than other squashes.
Whatever type of squash you choose, select ones that feel heavy for their size and that are not bruised. Depending on the variety, the color of the squash is also a great indicator of ripeness.
Squash like butternut and pumpkin should not have tinges of green on the main part of the rind. Varieties like buttercup and acorn should be a deep green, with only a spot of orange from where they were laying on the ground.
Whole squash will keep for several months in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area . After it is cooked and peeled, it freezes very well.
If you're new to cooking squash, start by trying a butternut squash. Butternut is the easiest to peel, and has a smooth texture. The nutty taste of the meat makes it perfect for a wide variety of dishes, from soups to a simple gratin. I have included two recipes that use butternut squash. One is for a soup and one is for a delicious gratin. Both are easy to make and good.
I want to take a minute to tell all our readers how thankful we are for their continued interest and support. Doing this column is wonderful, and your positive comments and e-mails make it so rewarding. We hope you have a wonderful and joyous holiday.
Enjoy.
This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net
Butternut Squash Gratin with Rosemary Breadcrumbs
Makes 10 servings
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
4 cups thinly sliced onions (about 1 pound)
2 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
3/4 cup canned low-salt chicken broth
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs made from soft white bread
2 cups (packed) grated sharp white cheddar cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; saute until onions are light golden, about 8 minutes. Add squash; saute 4 minutes. Sprinkle sugar, salt and pepper over vegetables; saute until onions and squash begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes.
Spread vegetable mixture in prepared dish. Pour chicken broth over. Cover tightly with foil and bake 45 minutes. (Squash mixture can be made a day ahead. Cool, then cover and refrigerate. Reheat in 350 degree oven until heated through, about 10 minutes.)
Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Mix breadcrumbs, cheese, rosemary and thyme in medium bowl. Sprinkle over gratin. Bake uncovered until top is golden brown and crisp, about 30 minutes.
- Source: Bon Appetit, November 2000
Green Beans Amandine with Leek Chips
Makes 8 to 10 servings
For the leek chips
4 medium leeks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For the green beans
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sliced (skin-on) almonds
2 small cloves garlic, minced or crushed (about 2 teaspoons)
2 1/2 to 3 pounds green beans (ends trimmed, optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
For the leek chips: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with aluminum foil and lightly grease with nonstick cooking oil spray.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and place a large colander in
the sink.
Remove and discard the darker leek leaves; trim and discard 1/4 inch from the root ends. Cut the leeks crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Use your fingers to separate the slices into rings and drop them into the bowl of water; swish them around vigorously for a few minutes to remove all sand and grit. Transfer the cleaned rings to the colander as you work.
When all the leeks are cleaned, pat them dry and spread evenly on the foil-lined baking sheets, drizzle with the oil and toss to coat evenly. Bake, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 60 minutes or until the rings are golden brown and crisp; because the rings are different sizes, some will be done sooner than others (some may take as long as 1 hour and 20 minutes). As they are done, transfer to a large plate and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and store at room temperature until ready to use.
For the green beans: Place a large colander in the sink. Bring a large pot of (unsalted) water to boil over high heat. Meanwhile, place a large, deep skillet over medium heat for 1 minute, then add the oil and the butter. When the butter has melted, reduce the heat to low and add the almonds. Cook, stirring often, for 6 to 8 minutes or until the almonds give off a toasty aroma. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and set aside.
When the water comes to a boil, add the green beans (you may have to do this in 2 batches); return to a full boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pot and let the beans sit for 4 to 5 minutes or until they turn bright green and are slightly tender but still crisp. Drain in the colander (repeat the process if necessary).
Return the skillet with the almonds and garlic to the stove over medium-low heat. Add the drained green beans; use tongs to turn them so that the beans are evenly coated. Before serving, sprinkle with the salt. Transfer to a serving dish and top with the leek chips. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Curried Butternut Squash Soup
Makes 6 servings
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil
1 cup chopped onions
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Red (cayenne) pepper to taste
2 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, halved lengthwise and sliced thin
3 cups vegetable or chicken broth
3 cups water
1 pound tart apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat olive or vegetable oil. Add onion and saute until golden brown. Add garlic, curry powder, cumin and cayenne pepper; cook, stirring constantly, 30 seconds. Add squash, vegetable or chicken broth, water and apples. Bring liquid to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, 25 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove from heat and cool 15 to 20 minutes.
Puree mixture in a blender or food processor, in batches, and transfer back into soup pot. Season with salt and pepper.
At this point, soup may be refrigerated until ready to serve.
To serve, warm over low heat, stirring until hot. Remove from heat and serve in soup bowls.
Pasta with Creamy Pumpkin Sauce
Makes 4 servings
When life hands you canned pumpkin on sale, make dinner with it as well as Thanksgiving dessert.
The flavors here - pumpkin, dairy, sage, a touch of Parmesan cheese - are what you might find in pumpkin-filled ravioli. But the effect is lighter; the squash becomes a subtle, can't-quite-place-it ingredient in this pale orange sauce.
We replaced the original recipe's cream with low-fat milk, and the sauce remained rich tasting.
Feel free to toss some toasted, chopped walnuts on top.
Serve with steamed broccoli.
8 to 10 ounces multigrain angel-hair pasta, such as Barilla brand
1 medium shallot
3 medium cloves garlic
2 sprigs sage leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin puree
3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup low-fat milk
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions (6 to 7 minutes).
Meanwhile, mince the shallot and garlic; finely chop the sage.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
Add the shallot and garlic; cook for 3 minutes, stirring, until they have softened.
Add the pumpkin puree, chicken broth, milk and half of the sage.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce is slightly thickened.
Season with salt and pepper to taste; keep warm on the lowest setting.
Drain the pasta and add to the sauce, then add 2 tablespoons of the cheese and mix well.
Divide among individual plates and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese and the remaining sage.
Nutrition Per serving: 296 calories, 15 g protein, 46 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 190 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber
- Adapted from “The Ski House Cookbook” by Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo (Clarkson Potter, 2007).
