In a recent discussion about favorite sandwiches, someone mentioned, “beef on weck.” This is a sandwich that is available in a few local eateries, but is clearly not mainstream. Growing up in central New York, this item seemed to be a staple on most menus. In fact, the signature rolls were available in local bakeries.

Some people consider beef on weck the best roast beef sandwich in America. This sandwich is a staple of Buffalo. Few, if any, restaurants outside the Buffalo area serve this sandwich or even know what it is.

It is the roll that makes the sandwich unique. Made only in the Buffalo-Rochester area, the kummelweck or kimmelweck is basically a Kaiser roll topped with lots of pretzel salt and caraway seeds. Inside, very thinly sliced roast beef is piled high, and the whole thing is served with a dish of “au jus,” for dipping.

Alternatively, the cook sometimes dips the top of the roll into the jus just before serving it. In either case, the beef on weck sandwich must be accompanied by a pot of freshly grated, sinus-clearing horseradish.

Although the exact history of the sandwich can't be documented, it is believed that William Wahr, a German baker, brought the kummelweck to Buffalo from the Black Forest. A local pub owner looking for a simple way to feed his customers seized on the roll, figuring the salt would make his patrons even thirstier.

He split the roll, heaped on roast beef, au jus and horseradish, and a sandwich was born. Sometimes this sandwich was offered as a free lunch at local pubs and breweries.

Today, we all know there are no free lunches but the sandwich is still a lunchtime favorite. Eating this sandwich and then returning to work may be a challenge but there are certain rules that do apply. These instructions come from “Charlie the Butcher,” a Buffalo restaurateur and beef on weck aficionado.

How to eat a beef on weck

Step 1: Take the top off the kummelweck roll

Step 2: Add the sauces: au jus and horseradish

Step 3: Make the sandwich as wet and sloppy as you can

Step 4: Replace the top

Step 5: Eat the sandwich

Step 6: Use a million napkins

Beef on weck can be made at home. Use your own recipe for the beef or purchase it. The rolls are what make the sandwich.

I have included two recipes. One converts a simple Kaiser roll to a Kummelweck; the other is for baking the rolls from scratch. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Kummelweck Rolls

1/4 cup caraway seeds

1/4 cup coarse salt

2 envelopes active dry yeast

5 cups (approximately) flour

2 teaspoons salt

2 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1/3 cup oil

2/3 cup milk

3/4 cup warm water

2 eggs

Combine the caraway seeds and the coarse salt in a small bowl and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the yeast, 2 cups of flour, the salt, oil, milk and water. Mix well at medium speed for 2 minutes, scraping the bowl occasionally. Add the eggs and beat the mixture another minute, adding as much flour as the mixer will take. By hand, stir in enough remaining flour to make a soft dough.

Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead, adding flour if necessary, until it is smooth and elastic. Place it in a large greased bowl, turning it to grease the top. Cover and let the dough rise until it has doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Punch the dough down and knead it for two minutes on a floured board.

To shape the rolls, cut the dough into 24 pieces. Tuck the edges of each piece under and shape it into a flat, round roll. With a sharp kitchen knife, cut four evenly spaced, shallow arcs into the top of each roll from the center to the edges, pressing at the center with your thumb to make an indentation. The pinwheel pattern should resemble that on a Kaiser roll. Sprinkle the tops of the rolls with the caraway-salt mixture, then transfer them to baking sheets and cover them. Let them rise until they have doubled in bulk.

To bake, place a heat-proof pan of water on the floor of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. When the oven is hot, put in the rolls and bake them for about 30 minutes, until they are brown.

Roast Beef on Weck

Kummelweck Rolls:

2 tablespoons coarse salt

2 tablespoons caraway seed, whole

1 cup water

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 cup water, warmed

12 hard rolls or Kaiser rolls

Beef on Weck

1 cup au jus gravy, reserved from roasting the beef

20 ounces cooked roast beef, sliced thinly

3 ounces prepared horseradish

Combine equal parts coarse salt and whole caraway seed. Store in clean jar.

Heat 1 cup water to a boil. Dissolve cornstarch in 1/2 cup warm water and add to boiled water.

Return to a boil and thicken until it coats a spoon. Cool and store in refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

To make kummelweck rolls, take 12 rolls and place on baking sheet. Brush top of rolls with cornstarch solution and sprinkle with seed mixture. Place in oven for 4 minutes or until kummelweck dries.

For the Beef on Weck: Heat au jus in saucepan until simmering. Dip sliced roast beef in hot au jus and place on cut kummelweck roll. Top with a dollop of horseradish and dip the top of the roll in the au jus.

- Recipe courtesy Charlie the Butcher