In a New York City restaurant, I was treated to a tableside preparation of “Bufala Mozzarella.” I was amazed at how the buffalo milk was heated in boiling water and turned into a delicious cheese. I think fresh mozzarella may be my favorite cheese.

Mozzarella was originally made from water-buffalo milk in Italy. Most fresh mozzarella now comes from cow's milk, both in Italy and here in North America.

Legend has it that Anthony and Cleopatra fell in love and spent many hours cruising the Nile on the barges pulled by water buffalo, eating sumptuous meals and feasting on cheese made from the milk of the water buffalo. Because he loved the cheese so much, Anthony sent water buffalo back to Rome as a gift to Caesar, with instructions on how to make the milk into mozzarella. The cheese became a staple of the Roman diet and all of Southern Italy.

This cheese is not aged like most cheeses and is actually best when eaten within hours of its making. The process of making mozzarella is called pasta filata, which means the curds are heated in water or whey until they form strings and become elastic in texture. The curds are stretched, kneaded until smooth and then formed into round balls.

Most people are familiar with mozzarella cheese because it is the cheese traditionally used on pizzas and to make fried cheese sticks. There is quite a difference in flavor and texture between fresh mozzarella and processed, sliced or shredded mozzarella. Fresh mozzarella has no comparison to the rubbery commercial variety available in supermarkets. Fresh mozzarella is moist and soft, quick-melting and delicate tasting.

Today two types of mozzarella are produced in the United States. There is low moisture mozzarella that has a moisture content of less than 50 percent and high moisture mozzarella that contains more than 52 percent.

The low moisture was developed in the United States to fit our transportation and distribution systems, and it has been available in grocery stores for years. This is the cheese that the huge factories produce for the pizza industry.

Fresh mozzarella is different. It is soft, moist and more perishable.

Which is better? I think there is a place in our kitchens for both. If it is going in the oven then the packaged variety will work well. It has less moisture and won't break down as quickly and will give you that melted golden brown topping that you are after. You'll find it readily available in part skim, low-fat and non-fat versions. Keep it tightly wrapped and use within two to four weeks

If you are going to eat it in a salad, accompanied with fresh vegetables or baked and served with a sauce then fresh is the way to go.

Thanks to the love for Italian food, high-moisture mozzarella is more readily available in the United States than ever. There are three types: industrially produced fresh mozzarella, mozzarella curds and some handmade fresh mozzarella that is available from some small companies.

Fresh mozzarella can be packaged dry in vacuum-sealed plastic packages or in a brining liquid. It is available salted and unsalted. It is most often made from cow's milk; however it can be made from a combination of other milks such as cow's milk and goat's milk mixed. A small amount of buffalo-milk mozzarella is produced in the states although very little water buffalo milk is commercially available. Most buffalo milk mozzarella sold here is imported from Italy and South America.

I have included three recipes. These are all very simple and delicious. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Quick and Easy Chicken Breasts

with Fresh Mozzarella

Makes 4 servings

4 skinless boneless chicken breasts (1 1/2 pounds, total)

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic

1/2 cup white wine

8 ounces fresh mozzarella roll, cut into 1/4 inch slices

4 sprigs fresh tarragon

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Melt the butter or oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the

garlic and chicken breasts and saute for 6 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown on both sides, turning as necessary. Remove the chicken to a plate and keep warm. Deglaze the pan with the wine and simmer briefly to reduce to half its original volume. Return the chicken to the skillet with any meat juices and cook for 1 minute. Place 2 slices of fresh mozzarella on top of each chicken breast, and place 1 sprig

of tarragon on top. Cover the pan and remove it from the heat. Set aside in a warm place for a few minutes and let the mozzarella soften and begin to melt. If necessary, return the covered skillet to low heat until the mozzarella softens. Sprinkle with additional salt or pepper, as desired. Remove the garlic.

To serve, spoon some of the sauce over each breast.

- Source: The Cheese Lover's Cookbook & Guide by Paula Lambert, 2000

Mozzarella with Fresh Tomatoes and Basil

18 slices mozzarella cheese

18 slices ripe tomatoes

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Juice of 2 lemons or a good balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried

Salt and pepper to taste

On serving platter, alternate slices of mozzarella and

tomatoes. Mix together oil, lemon juice, rosemary and thyme. Spoon over cheese and tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Fresh Tomato Mozzarella Linguine

Makes 3-4 servings

2-3 tablespoons chopped basil

1 large garlic clove, minced

Pepper to taste

6 ounces mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

3/4 pound linguine

Coarsely chop tomatoes. Mince the basil leaves. Combine tomatoes, basil, garlic, pepper and mozzarella in a glass or ceramic bowl and let the flavors blend for an hour or so. Cook linguine according to package directions. Serve cheese mixture at room temperature, over hot pasta.