The new “in” food is actually an old world dish from South America called ceviche. It has been one of South America's best-kept secrets for centuries, but Ceviche is becoming a popular appetizer.

Ceviche, which is often spelled seviche or cebiche, depending on which part of South America it comes from, is seafood prepared in a centuries-old method of cooking by contact with the acidic juice of citrus and other ingredients instead of heat.

I know you are wondering if ceviche is just a fancy way to make sushi or sashimi. I assure you that it is quite different.

Ceviche is not raw seafood. Fish consists mostly of protein fibers that resemble coiled springs. When heat is applied, starting at about 130 degrees, the bonds holding these fibers in place begin to relax. That is called denaturing. Then the protein fibers straighten out and link together in coagulation. Thus, the fish is “cooked.” This process can be caused by more that just heat. Air drying, a very old culinary practice, has the same effect, and so does acidity. So the citric acid in limes, lemons, grapefruit and oranges has precisely the same effect on the protein in fish and other seafood that heat does. The first time you make ceviche you will be was amazed. You can actually see the lemon and lime juice turning the color of the fish from translucent pink to opaque.

Ceviche can be eaten as a first course or main dish, depending on what is served with it. The preparation and consumption of ceviche is practically a religion in parts of Mexico, Central and South America, and it seems as though there are as many varieties of ceviche as people who eat it

Ceviche's birthplace is disputed between Peru and Ecuador, and as both countries have an amazing variety of fish and shellfish, it could easily have come from the ancient Inca civilizations of Peru and Ecuador.

In Peru, it is served with slices of cold sweet potatoes or corn-on-the-cob. In Ecuador, it is accompanied by popcorn, potato chips, nuts or corn nuts. It is also served in a large crystal bowl with the guests helping themselves, either by spearing it with toothpicks or filling the pastry shells. In Mexico, seviche is accompanied by slices of raw onions and served on toasted tortillas.

Virtually any seafood can be made into ceviche, including white fish, shrimp, clams, lobster, conch and squid. Dark fish such as salmon don't work well, and if you use squid it must be tenderized first.

Ceviche can be quite beautiful on a serving platter. A wide mouthed martini glass makes an excellent impression with a few lettuce leaves. Spoon in the ceviche and then garnish with one or more colorful ingredient such as thin rings of red onion, one-quarter of an avocado sliced and fanned or assorted bell peppers finely diced. The possibilities are endless.

I have included two recipes using different seafood. The first is for a shrimp ceviche. The shrimp is first lightly cooked and then marinated in the citrus juice. This is a good recipe to try for those who may be afraid of other ceviches only “cooked” in citrus juice. The next is for a red snapper ceviche.

Both are easy to make and fun to eat. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Red Snapper Ceviche

2 pounds of firm, fresh red snapper fillets, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, completely deboned

1/2 cup of fresh squeezed lime juice

1/2 cup of fresh squeezed lemon juice

1/2 purple onion, finely diced

1 cup of fresh peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes

1 serrano chili, seeded and finely diced

2 teaspoons of salt

Dash of ground oregano

Dash of Tabasco or a few grains of cayenne pepper

Cilantro

Avocado

Tortillas or tortilla chips

In a non-reactive casserole dish, either Pyrex or ceramic, place the fish, onion, tomatoes, chili, salt, Tabasco, and oregano.

Cover with lime and lemon juice. Let sit covered in the

refrigerator for an hour, then stir, making sure more of the fish gets exposed to the acidic lime and lemon juices. Let sit for at least 6 hours, giving time for the flavors to blend.

Serve with chopped cilantro and slices of avocado with heated tortillas for ceviche tacos or with tortilla chips.

Optional: Can use shrimp and or scallops as a substitute for some of the fish. You can also use a firm cod in place of the red snapper.

Shrimp Ceviche

Makes 4-6 servings

1 pound medium-small shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons salt

3/4 cup lime juice (juice from 4-6 limes)

3/4 cup lemon juice (juice from 2-3 lemons)

1 cup finely chopped red onion

1 serrano chile, ribs and seeds removed, minced

1 cup chopped cilantro

1 cucumber, peeled diced into 1/2-inch pieces

1 avocado, peeled, seed removed, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

In a large pot, bring to a boil 4 quarts of water, salted with 2 tablespoons salt. Add the shrimp and cook for 1 minute to 2 minutes max, depending on size of shrimp. (Over-cooking the shrimp will turn it rubbery.) Remove shrimp with a

slotted spoon and place into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking.

Drain the shrimp. Cut each piece of shrimp in half, or into inch-long pieces. Place shrimp in a glass or ceramic bowl. Mix in the lime and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for a half hour.

Mix in the chopped red onion and serrano chile. Refrigerate an additional half hour.

Right before serving, add the cilantro, cucumber and

avocado.