Driving through the country it's hard to miss the lush corn fields. They seem to have sprouted like Jack's beanstalk. It won't be long until local home-grown corn is on every farm stand and supermarket produce isle.

It's the all-American food and the very symbol of summer. Those butter dripping ears of sweet corn define picnics, clambakes, barbecues and suppers as long as the season lasts.

If there is a complaint about corn, it is that the season is never long enough. It only lasts in our area for about two months from late July to frost.

For Native Americans the word for corn means “our life,” “our mother” or “she who sustains us.” It was from the Native Americans that the first European settlers learned about corn. The Pawtuxet Indian tribe in Massachusetts was cultivating corn when the first settler arrived, and corn was on the first Thanksgiving table in 1621. If it had not been for corn, the pilgrims might have starved to death during their first year in America. The Indians taught settlers how to grown corn, pound corn into meal and how to cook with it.

In American regional cooking, corn is important in many recipes, such as corn chowder, creamed corn, succotash and cornbread. But no preparation can come close to the timeless appeal of simple buttered corn on the cob.

Fully ripe sweet corn has bright green, moist husks. The silk should be stiff, dark and moist. You should be able to feel individual kernels by pressing gently against the husk. Fresh corn, if possible, should be cooked and served the day it is picked or purchased.

As soon as corn is picked, its sugar begins a gradual conversion to starch, which reduces the corn's natural sweetness. Corn will lose 25 percent or more of its sugar within 25 hours after harvesting. If corn is not being used immediately, add sugar to replace that which has been lost. Add one teaspoon sugar for each quart of water.

Between purchasing and cooking, keep the corn moist and cool. Pack in a cooler for the trip home from farm or market and refrigerate corn immediately after taking it home. By refrigerating the corn, it helps the corn stay sweet by not letting the sugars turn to starch. It is best to use immediately but use within two or three days if that is not possible.

There are a variety of ways to cook corn on the cob and all of them are simple and delicious. The most common is boiling. You can remove the leaves and the little silks from the ear first, or remove only the toughest outer leaves and boil them in the husks. The silks are more easily removed once the corn has been cooked. Put the ears in boiling water. How long you leave them there depends on your tastes. Some people boil them only long enough to warm the ears, a minute or so. Others like them more done, and leave them in the pot for 3 minutes or more.

Another option is to microwave. Again, you can shuck before or after cooking. If you shuck first, wrap the ears in damp paper towels. Cook them on high until you smell the corn, which will be 6 to 9 minutes for a couple of ears or 12 to 14 minutes for four. You should turn them around about halfway through. If you're shucking after cooking, use a dish towel to protect your hands from the heat.

You can also grill corn. It can be in the husk or out of it. For a milder flavor, soak the corn in husks in cold water for 2 to 3 hours. Put them on a hot grill and cook until they're evenly heated on all sides, which can take anywhere from 8 to 15 minutes. Again, the silks will come off more easily after cooking. If you husk first, you'll get a much more intense grilled-corn flavor, and will want to grill the ears for 5 to 7 minutes, turning them occasionally to expose all surfaces to the heat.

Oven roasting is also an option. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Peel back corn husks, leaving them attached at the base of the ear, then remove and discard silk. Smear softened butter on each ear and then rewrap corn with husks. Pile corn in a roasting pan, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and roast for 8 to 10 minutes.

I have included two recipes. These can be made from corn left over from the barbecue. One is for southern corn chowder from a recipe from the former White House chef, Henry Haller, who often made it for the Carter family.

The other is for roasted corn salsa. Roasting corn can give this salsa a good nutty flavor, but if you don't have the time or inclination, make it with steamed corn. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Roasted Corn Salsa

Makes 4 generous cups

1 3/4 cups fresh corn kernels

3/4 cup chopped yellow or red onion

2 tablespoons minced jalapeno pepper

3 tablespoons minced cilantro

1 3/4 cups chopped tomatoes

3/4 chopped sweet red pepper

1 tablespoon each fresh lemon, orange and lime juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pinch of black pepper

1/2 teaspoon soy sauce

Place a heavy skillet over high heat. When it's very hot, add the corn. Toss constantly until roasted, about 8 minutes.

Toss the corn with all the other ingredients. Serve at room temperature, adding more soy sauce if necessary.

Southern Corn Chowder

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1/4 pound bacon, diced

1 cup onions, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup celery, finely diced

1/4 cup red pepper, finely diced

1/4 cup green pepper, finely diced

1 tablespoon paprika

1/2 cup finely diced Idaho potato

1 tablespoon flour

1 bay leaf

6 cups chicken broth

1 cup (about two large ears) fresh corn cut from the cob

2 cups light cream or milk

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large, heavy soup pot, brown the bacon and add the onion. Saute until the onion is transparent. Add the garlic and saute for two more minutes. Add peppers, potato and paprika. Cook another minute or two. Combine flour with a little of the chicken stock and add to the mixture with the bay leaf and remaining stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Add corn and simmer another 15 minutes. Season to taste. Add cream and parsley.