Gelato, an Italian art form

By Max Hitchcock

Tuesday, July 3, 2007 11:06 PM EDT

Almost everyone's favorite food is Italian. One item that is starting to be recognized in the United States as another great Italian masterpiece is gelato.
Anyone who has traveled to Italy knows that there is a gelato shop or stand on almost every corner. Gelato is Italy's version of ice cream.

If you are an ice cream lover, you will love gelato for many reasons. It is creamy but not heavy. It is soft and not icy. It is a true luxury in ice cream. If you are not an ice cream lover, gelato may turn you into one.

The history of gelato dates back to the 16th century. There is some confusion in the origin as to where or who really invented gelato. As most stories go, it is credited to Bernardo Buontalenti, a native of Florence, who delighted the court of Catherina dei Medici with his creation.

Italians are certainly credited with introducing gelato to the rest of Europe. Sicilian born Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli was one of the most influential individuals in the history of gelato, as one of the first to sell it to the public. Summoned to Paris in 1686, he opened a cafe named after himself called Cafe Procope, which quickly became one of the most celebrated haunts of the literary establishment in France.

In Italy meanwhile, the art of traditional gelato making was passed on from father to son, improved and perfected right up to the 20th century, when many gelato makers began to emigrate, taking their skills to the rest of Europe and eventually the United States.

Gelato in Italian literally means “frozen,” but it basically used to indicate the Italian type of ice cream.

One of the basic differences between gelato and the ice cream is that it doesn't contain as much air and is therefore more intense in flavor.

Gelato is healthier than American-style ice cream since it is made with all natural ingredients and contains fewer calories and less butter fat.

Traditional American ice cream is made with a mixture of mostly whole milk, cream, sugar, sweeteners and flavorings such as fruits, fruit purees, nuts and chocolate chips. But the key ingredient is air, sometimes as much as 50 percent. In addition, commercial varieties often include chemical emulsifiers and stabilizers to add texture and protect the product from temperature changes undergone while traveling from the factory to your freezer.

Authentic gelato, on the other hand, is made with whole milk, cream, eggs, sugar, fruit, nuts or purees, almost no air, and no chemical preservatives, emulsifiers or stabilizers. Ideally, it's made daily, in small batches.

Gelato is denser and has a more intense flavor than American ice cream. That's because of its lower butterfat content, usually only about 6 or 7 percent, which allows the flavor of the fresh ingredients to dominate.

American-style ice cream is required by federal law to have a minimum of 10 percent butterfat, which tends to coat the tongue, blocking other flavors. Gelato is served about 10-15 degrees warmer than ice cream. When you actually take a bite of it, the flavor is released a lot quicker

Recipes for gelatos vary. Some have eggs; some use milk only, and some use milk with heavy cream. Cornstarch is an ingredient that gives the smooth texture to some recipes. I have included one of each. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Custard Cream Gelato

6 cups of whole milk or 2 percent

1 1/2 cups of sugar

12 egg yolks beaten

1 tablespoon of grated orange or lemon peel

In a large saucepan combine egg yolks, milk and sugar. Cook and whisk over low heat until mixture sticks to the metal utensil.

Remove from heat and gradually mix in the remaining milk and grated peel making sure not to cook the eggs. Cover and chill in the refrigerator overnight or place the saucepan in an ice bath until completely chilled.

Freeze in a 5-quart ice cream maker according to manufacturers directions. This recipe makes around 2 to 3 quarts of gelato. The recipe can be adjusted to make a smaller portion .

Peach Gelato

1 cup sugar

2 cups water

1 1/4 pound fully ripe peaches, peeled halved and pitted

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

1 cup heavy cream

Put sugar and 2 cups water in a saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves, then raise heat, bring syrup to a boil and boil 5 minutes. Transfer syrup to a bowl and let it cool completely. Puree peaches in a food processor. Measure out 2 cups of puree and stir in lemon juice. Add puree to cooled sugar syrup and chill thoroughly. Whip cream into soft peaks and fold it into fruit mixture. Transfer mixture to ice cream machine and freeze according to machine's directions.

Chocolate Gelato

There are no eggs in this recipe. It's the cornstarch that gives the gelato a smooth, silky texture. Fine-quality chocolate provides its rich flavor.

3 cups whole milk

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

Scant 1/4 teaspoon salt

7 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), finely chopped

Special equipment: an ice cream maker

Bring 2 1/4 cups milk just to a boil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. While milk is heating, whisk together sugar, cornstarch, salt, and 1/4 cup (cold) milk in a bowl until smooth, then whisk into boiling milk and bring to a boil over moderate heat, whisking. Boil, whisking frequently, 3 minutes (mixture will be very thick). Remove from heat.

Bring remaining 1/2 cup (cold) milk just to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Pour hot milk over chocolate in a bowl and let stand until chocolate is melted, about 1 minute, then whisk until smooth. Stir into cornstarch-milk mixture and force through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Cool slightly, stirring frequently to prevent a skin from forming, then cover surface with wax paper and chill until cold, at least 1 1/2 hours.

Freeze mixture in ice cream maker, then transfer to an airtight container and freeze until hardened, about 3 hours. Let soften five minutes before serving.

Note: Gelato keeps one week.

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There are 1 comment(s)

melinda@neal.us wrote on Jul 6, 2007 9:42 AM:

" THANKS FOR THESE RECIPES. I HAVE FOND MEMORIES OF VISITING A GELATO SHOP NEAR BENTON & CLARK STREETS WHEN WE VISITED MY GRANDPARENTS. IT WAS A BEAUTIFUL NEIGHBORHOOD! "

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