Southern cooking up North

By Bob Leonardi

Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:37 AM EDT

Veronica and I spent a week in New Orleans recently and had the most unbelievable time imaginable. My nephew, Jack, owns one of the hottest restaurants in the country there named Jacques-Imo's. He has a second, very busy lunch place called Crabby Jack's (approximately 800 eat-in/take-out covers daily Monday through Friday), which also serves as an excellent prep location for the 650 plus dinners a night that they do. He and his lovely wife, Amelia, took the time from their busy schedules to show us around this fantastic city. I will need at least two or three columns to cover what we saw and, more importantly, what we tasted. So here goes:
This is a food column and most of my time will be devoted to that element, however, you simply cannot write about New Orleans without at least mentioning the other great stuff to do and see in this unique city, known for its history, culture and vibrancy.

The music is so eclectic even the stiffest of us will be tapping our feet while there. The architecture is so distinctive, even the person who is totally set in his or her ways will marvel over some of the homes, especially in the garden district.

The people are so friendly, even the most skeptical of us will loosen up and talk with strangers.

Then there is the food! New Orleans is a culinary nirvana with so much good food and fine restaurants, it's hard for even the most disciplined of us to not to go off our diet and indulge during a visit.

Jack grew up in the Finger Lakes, attended Weedsport High School and spent most of his summers on Owasco Lake at his grandparent's home. After graduating from the U.S. Coast Guard Academy, he decided to stay in New Orleans, which was his last port of call. He studied under world famous Paul Prudhomme of K-Paul's in the French Quarter and his first place, the Warehouse Cafe, was more connected to music than food, but it was a learning experience in dealing with employees and managing his own business.

His first few years at Jacques-Imo's were so lean that his motto became: “Not Famous Since 1996.” But beginning around 2000 and continuing every year since, he and his food have become well known, not only locally, but throughout the country, thanks to positive write-ups in several national magazines. His talents have become legendary. He has been written up in Playboy, Gentleman's Quarterly, Food and Wine, Bon Appetite and several other prominent publications.

Without reservations, he took us to arguably the finest restaurant in New Orleans, if not the country, Commander's Palace. They treated him like a rock star and us like royalty, marching our entourage past long lines of guests (with reservations) waiting to be seated. They immediately started sending complimentary food and beverages for all of us including a tableside presentation by our Maitre d' of Bananas Foster.

The least I could do was to buy their beautifully illustrated and well-written book, “Commander's Kitchen,” which the chef personally signed for Veronica and I with the message, “laissez le Bon Temps Roule,” meaning “let the good times roll.”

So for this article, I am providing two classic recipes from this wonderful book. Next month, I will provide a couple of Jacques-Imo's recipes that he has promised.

But for now, directly from “Commander's Kitchen” (to you free from this $40 book) are two of the south's most well-known staples: Creole bread pudding and the whiskey sauce to cover it. Read, try and enjoy.

Bob Leonardi, of Auburn, ran a successful restaurant business, catering, and gourmet food store in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., for 15 years.

Creole Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce

1 tablespoon butter

12 medium eggs, beaten

3 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons vanilla extract, pure

2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated

4 ounces day-old, french bread

1 cup raisins

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Slice bread into 1-inch thick pieces. Butter a large casserole dish (11- by 18 1/2- by 3-inches). Mix the eggs, cream and vanilla in a large bowl. Combine the sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg in a separate bowl. Add the sugar mixture to the egg mixture and combine thoroughly. Do not rush this dish. The two separate bowls help to evenly distribute the spices.

Place the raisins in the bottom of the buttered casserole and add the bread slices in a single layer. Gently pour the custard over the bread, making certain that all the bread thoroughly soaks up the custard (a piece of dry bread will be a turn off to the recipient). Pour about 1 1/2-inch of hot water into the roasting pan.

Cover the casserole with foil and place gently inside the roasting pan so the water does not spill into the casserole dish. Bake for two-and-a-half hours. Remove the foil from the casserole dish, increase the oven temperature to 300 degrees and bake for one more hour, or until the pudding is golden brown and slightly firm.

Use a spoon to make sure the custard is fully cooked; it should be moist but no longer runny. If you're unsure whether it's done, remove it from the oven and let it cool while it remains sitting in the water bath.

The carryover effect will keep it cooking, but it will not overcook. Serve slightly warm with the whiskey sauce and whipped cream.

Whiskey Sauce

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup bourbon

2 tablespoons cold water

Combine the cornstarch and water. Pour the heavy cream into a pot and bring to a boil. Add the cornstarch and water mixture and stir constantly.

Return the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook, continuing to stir for about 30 seconds, being very careful not to burn the mixture.

Add the sugar and bourbon. Stir some more and then when well mixed, take off the heat and cool to room

temperature until ready to use.

You can make both the bread pudding as well as the sauce well in advance and then heat just before serving.

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There are 1 comment(s)

TEXAS NATIVE wrote on May 12, 2007 10:39 AM:

" THIS RECIPE IS WITHOUT A DOUBT "THE BEST" BREAD PUDDING YOU WILL EVER EAT. EVEN IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE SAUCE WITHOUT THE WHISKEY....IT'S SCRUMPTIOUS TO SAY THE LEAST. TRY IT FOLKS!! "

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