I picked up a package of fresh peas at the market this week. I love them as a snack or just thrown into a salad. These peas were so sweet I had to check the package to make sure no sugar was added. This little green gem is truly a gift from Mother Nature.
You may find this Old English rhyme familiar:
Pease porridge hot,
Pease porridge cold,
Pease porridge in the pot
Nine days old.
This rhyme didn't have a clear meaning to most of us. It sounded good and was easy to recite with its singsong rhythm. However, if you were a young peasant child growing up in 16th century England, this rhyme had lots of meaning in describing your frequent meals of pease porridge served hot, cold or in between .
A large kettle of a thick porridge made of peas hung over the fire in many English and Scottish homes during the Middle Ages and was customary even in the 16th and 17th centuries. Because few of the peasants could afford meat, they based their meals on pease porridge with an abundance of whatever vegetables were on hand. When the fire died down at night, the morning porridge was quite cold. Each day the fire was relit, and more peas and vegetables were added to the kettle. The original ingredients in the kettle could have been nine days old.
Food historians have different opinions on the exact homeland of peas. The general consensus is that peas could have originated in the region that spans from the near or Middle East across to central Asia. Considering that most peas are a cool-weather crop, some historians believe their country of origin may have been northern India, Burma or northern Thailand.
Throughout history peas have been on the culinary scene. They can be carbon dated to 9750 BCE. Apicius, Rome's first cookbook author of the ancient world, has nine recipes for cooking peas.
Thomas Jefferson, was an avid gardener. He thought so highly of peas that he planted 30 varieties of them. Peas, apparently, were his favorite vegetable.
During colonial times in the southern United States peas provided nutritious sustenance. In fact, peas took precedence over beans and appeared in dishes like Hoppin' John that was a favorite of both the poor and the rich. In an effort to tempt new colonists to settle in the South, one writer boasted that the land was so fertile that peas grew 10 inches in 10 days.
When canned vegetables came into vogue during the late 1800s, they were very affordable. Peas were probably among the first vegetables to be canned by a company that became a household name. The Campbell Soup Co. began canning peas in 1870. Frozen vegetables appeared in the 1920s and 1930s. This provided a distinct advantage for peas. They could be harvested and frozen almost immediately before their sugars turned to starch, a process that begins within hours of harvesting. People who did not grow their own peas or who lived a great distance from a farm could enjoy the fresh, sweet flavor of frozen peas.
More than 1,000 varieties of peas are in existence today. France, China, Denmark and Russia lead in the production of dried peas, with the United States, England, Hungary and India mainly producing fresh peas. China's fresh peas consist mostly of snow peas.
There are a few varieties that are most common and readily found in the market. English Green, Garden Peas or Shelling Peas are commonly grown in home gardens where they are picked fresh and eaten raw or cooked. Petits Pois are smaller than the English Green peas. This dwarf variety of tiny peas is usually grown commercially and becomes available in frozen or canned form. Snow Peas or Chinese Peas are very popular. Most of us are aware of the thin, almost flat pea pods that are a common ingredient in Chinese dishes, either very lightly cooked or eaten raw. Inside the flat pod are tiny flat peas. They are sweet, crisp and bright green and have become so popular that most supermarkets will have them in their specialty produce sections.
Sugar Snap Peas are a cross between Snow Peas and English Green Peas, these crunchy, sweet, succulent pods are usually eaten raw in their entirety. The peas inside are fully developed, plump, round and delicious. Because peas are legumes, they offer many of the nutritional benefits typical of foods in the legume family, such as high protein, high fiber and low fat.
Preparing peas is a simple process. Fresh shelling peas, sugar snap peas and snow peas can all be eaten raw. Shelling peas do not have edible pods, while sugar snaps and snow peas can be eaten pods and all.
Break open the pods of the shelling peas, also called peas in a pod, run the thumb along the edge where the peas are attached to the pod to loosen and then collect the peas in a bowl.
Sugar snap peas and snow peas require trimming to eliminate the stringy edge that holds the two halves of the pod together. While cutting off the tips of the pods with a paring knife, pull along the length of the pod to remove the stringy portion, then discard.
Whole dried peas require soaking for several hours before cooking. Dried split green or yellow peas do not require soaking.
I have included two recipes, one for a traditional soup and one for a quick side dish. Enjoy.
This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net
Split Pea Vegetable Soup
Makes 6 servings
2 cups dried split peas
8 cups water
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed in a mortar and pestle
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups water
3 large carrots, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large tomato, diced
1 large parsnip, sliced thin (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Look over peas and discard any imperfect ones. Rinse peas and put them into a large stockpot along with the water, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Partially cover pot and bring to a boil. Turn heat down and simmer 30 to 40 minutes or until peas are soft.
Put water, carrots, onion, tomato and parsnip into a large wok or skillet. Cook over medium-high heat for 5 to 8 minutes or until vegetables are soft.
Puree all ingredients together in batches in a blender for a smooth puree. If you prefer soup with more texture, puree in the food processor. If desired, some portion of the vegetables can be left whole for a little more texture.
Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, if needed, and serve hot with whole grain bread.
Note: Though the parsnip is optional, it always adds just a light touch of sweetness, making the soup much more flavorful.
Chunky variation: To the already listed vegetables, add two turnips, diced; four stalks celery, diced; two broccoli crowns, chopped; 1/4 head cauliflower, chopped; one green bell pepper, chopped, and one red bell pepper, chopped. Saute these together in a small amount of water. Add to stockpot after pureeing the peas. Cook gently for about 5 to 10 minutes to blend flavors, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Sauteed Asparagus and Snap Peas
8 asparagus spears, tough ends removed, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
1/4 pound snap peas, cleaned
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile prepare a bowl with water and ice to put the asparagus in after they are blanched.
Once the water is boiling, add asparagus and cook for about 2 minutes.
Drain and place in the ice water.
They should still be very crunchy.
Heat the butter and olive oil in a saute pan on medium heat.
Add shallots and cook until translucent
Add snap peas and asparagus, toss to coat.
Season with salt and pepper.
Cook for about 2 to 4 minutes.
Indian-Spiced Chicken Burgers
Makes 4 large servings
(Start to finish: 40 minutes)
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (4 to 5), cut into rough chunks
4 scallions, whites and greens, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger (from a peeled 2-inch piece)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons cumin
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshy ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for coating grill grates
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
Four 6-inch whole-wheat pita breads
1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced on the diagonal
1/2 cup fresh cilantro sprigs
For the burgers, heat the grill to medium-high. In a large bowl, toss the chicken with the scallions, ginger, lemon juice, paprika, cumin, cardamom, cayenne pepper, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Set aside to marinate at least 10 minutes (and up to 30 minutes).
Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped, but not pasty, 10 to 12 times. Gently form the mixture into 16 patties, each 3/4-inch thick (about 3 tablespoons of mixture per patty).
Moisten a folded paper towel with oil; grasp with tongs and rub over the grill grates to coat with oil. Season the patties with additional salt and pepper. Grill until opaque, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.
While the burgers cook, make the sauce. In a small bowl, combine yogurt and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Halve the pitas crosswise and place two patties, cucumber slices and some cilantro in each half. Serve with yogurt sauce.
(each is two pita halves and four burgers).
- Recipe from Everyday Food's “Great Food Fast,” Clarkson Potter, 2007, $24.95.
---
QUICK THAI CHICKEN CURRY
(Start to finish: 30 minutes)
For the rice:
1 cup Thai jasmine rice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Pinch salt
For the curry:
1 3/4 cups coconut milk
3 tablespoons Thai green curry paste
1 tablespoon safflower oil
1 chicken breast (about 14 ounces), cut into bite-size pieces
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
1 teaspoon Thai fish sauce
4 ounces chopped mixed fresh vegetables
Handful fresh basil leaves
To make the rice, in a large saucepan combine the rice, 1 1/2 cups cold water, butter and salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Cover and cook 20 minutes, or until the water is completely absorbed. Add more water and continue cooking if rice is not tender.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the coconut milk to a near boil. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the curry paste. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the chicken and saute until golden, about 2 minutes. Carefully add the coconut milk. Add the lime zest, fish sauce and vegetables. Stir well and reduce heat to simmer. Cook for 12 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through.
When the rice has cooked, remove it from the heat and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff it with a fork just before serving.
To serve, divide the curry between serving bowls and scatter with basil. Serve bowls of rice on the side.
Makes 2 servings.
(Recipe from Caroline Marson's “No Fuss Dinners,” Ryland Peters & Small, 2006, $24.95)
AP-ES-04-09-07 1719EDT
Banana Bran Muffins
Makes 12 muffins
Start to finish: 45 minutes
2 cups high-fiber cereal, such as All-Bran
2 cups fat-free milk, heated until hot (but not boiled)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white or standard whole-wheat flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup molasses
1/4 cup egg substitute, or 1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup canola oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 medium bananas, mashed (about 1 cup)
3/4 cup dried currants
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 12 standard muffin cups with cooking spray. Alternatively, line the muffin tins with paper cup liners.
In a large bowl, combine the cereal and milk. Let stand, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine both flours, the baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Set aside.
When the cereal mixture is reading, add the molasses, egg substitute, oil, vanilla and bananas. Mix well. Add the cereal mixture to the dry ingredients and stir just until the dry ingredients are moistened (batter will be lumpy). Stir in the currants.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the tops of the muffins spring back when pressed. Remove the muffins from the pan and place on a wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Nutrition information per muffin: 224 calories, 5 g total fat (0 g saturated), 6 g protein, 41 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 156 mg sodium
(Recipe adapted from Dr. Ralph Felder and Carol Colman's “The Bonus Years Diet,” Putnam Adult, 2007, $25.95)
AP-ES-04-13-07 1156EDT
Pease porridge hot,
Pease porridge cold,
Pease porridge in the pot
Nine days old.
This rhyme didn't have a clear meaning to most of us. It sounded good and was easy to recite with its singsong rhythm. However, if you were a young peasant child growing up in 16th century England, this rhyme had lots of meaning in describing your frequent meals of pease porridge served hot, cold or in between .
A large kettle of a thick porridge made of peas hung over the fire in many English and Scottish homes during the Middle Ages and was customary even in the 16th and 17th centuries. Because few of the peasants could afford meat, they based their meals on pease porridge with an abundance of whatever vegetables were on hand. When the fire died down at night, the morning porridge was quite cold. Each day the fire was relit, and more peas and vegetables were added to the kettle. The original ingredients in the kettle could have been nine days old.
Food historians have different opinions on the exact homeland of peas. The general consensus is that peas could have originated in the region that spans from the near or Middle East across to central Asia. Considering that most peas are a cool-weather crop, some historians believe their country of origin may have been northern India, Burma or northern Thailand.
Throughout history peas have been on the culinary scene. They can be carbon dated to 9750 BCE. Apicius, Rome's first cookbook author of the ancient world, has nine recipes for cooking peas.
Thomas Jefferson, was an avid gardener. He thought so highly of peas that he planted 30 varieties of them. Peas, apparently, were his favorite vegetable.
During colonial times in the southern United States peas provided nutritious sustenance. In fact, peas took precedence over beans and appeared in dishes like Hoppin' John that was a favorite of both the poor and the rich. In an effort to tempt new colonists to settle in the South, one writer boasted that the land was so fertile that peas grew 10 inches in 10 days.
When canned vegetables came into vogue during the late 1800s, they were very affordable. Peas were probably among the first vegetables to be canned by a company that became a household name. The Campbell Soup Co. began canning peas in 1870. Frozen vegetables appeared in the 1920s and 1930s. This provided a distinct advantage for peas. They could be harvested and frozen almost immediately before their sugars turned to starch, a process that begins within hours of harvesting. People who did not grow their own peas or who lived a great distance from a farm could enjoy the fresh, sweet flavor of frozen peas.
More than 1,000 varieties of peas are in existence today. France, China, Denmark and Russia lead in the production of dried peas, with the United States, England, Hungary and India mainly producing fresh peas. China's fresh peas consist mostly of snow peas.
There are a few varieties that are most common and readily found in the market. English Green, Garden Peas or Shelling Peas are commonly grown in home gardens where they are picked fresh and eaten raw or cooked. Petits Pois are smaller than the English Green peas. This dwarf variety of tiny peas is usually grown commercially and becomes available in frozen or canned form. Snow Peas or Chinese Peas are very popular. Most of us are aware of the thin, almost flat pea pods that are a common ingredient in Chinese dishes, either very lightly cooked or eaten raw. Inside the flat pod are tiny flat peas. They are sweet, crisp and bright green and have become so popular that most supermarkets will have them in their specialty produce sections.
Sugar Snap Peas are a cross between Snow Peas and English Green Peas, these crunchy, sweet, succulent pods are usually eaten raw in their entirety. The peas inside are fully developed, plump, round and delicious. Because peas are legumes, they offer many of the nutritional benefits typical of foods in the legume family, such as high protein, high fiber and low fat.
Preparing peas is a simple process. Fresh shelling peas, sugar snap peas and snow peas can all be eaten raw. Shelling peas do not have edible pods, while sugar snaps and snow peas can be eaten pods and all.
Break open the pods of the shelling peas, also called peas in a pod, run the thumb along the edge where the peas are attached to the pod to loosen and then collect the peas in a bowl.
Sugar snap peas and snow peas require trimming to eliminate the stringy edge that holds the two halves of the pod together. While cutting off the tips of the pods with a paring knife, pull along the length of the pod to remove the stringy portion, then discard.
Whole dried peas require soaking for several hours before cooking. Dried split green or yellow peas do not require soaking.
I have included two recipes, one for a traditional soup and one for a quick side dish. Enjoy.
This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net
Split Pea Vegetable Soup
Makes 6 servings
2 cups dried split peas
8 cups water
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed in a mortar and pestle
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups water
3 large carrots, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large tomato, diced
1 large parsnip, sliced thin (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Look over peas and discard any imperfect ones. Rinse peas and put them into a large stockpot along with the water, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Partially cover pot and bring to a boil. Turn heat down and simmer 30 to 40 minutes or until peas are soft.
Put water, carrots, onion, tomato and parsnip into a large wok or skillet. Cook over medium-high heat for 5 to 8 minutes or until vegetables are soft.
Puree all ingredients together in batches in a blender for a smooth puree. If you prefer soup with more texture, puree in the food processor. If desired, some portion of the vegetables can be left whole for a little more texture.
Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, if needed, and serve hot with whole grain bread.
Note: Though the parsnip is optional, it always adds just a light touch of sweetness, making the soup much more flavorful.
Chunky variation: To the already listed vegetables, add two turnips, diced; four stalks celery, diced; two broccoli crowns, chopped; 1/4 head cauliflower, chopped; one green bell pepper, chopped, and one red bell pepper, chopped. Saute these together in a small amount of water. Add to stockpot after pureeing the peas. Cook gently for about 5 to 10 minutes to blend flavors, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Sauteed Asparagus and Snap Peas
8 asparagus spears, tough ends removed, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
1/4 pound snap peas, cleaned
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile prepare a bowl with water and ice to put the asparagus in after they are blanched.
Once the water is boiling, add asparagus and cook for about 2 minutes.
Drain and place in the ice water.
They should still be very crunchy.
Heat the butter and olive oil in a saute pan on medium heat.
Add shallots and cook until translucent
Add snap peas and asparagus, toss to coat.
Season with salt and pepper.
Cook for about 2 to 4 minutes.
Indian-Spiced Chicken Burgers
Makes 4 large servings
(Start to finish: 40 minutes)
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (4 to 5), cut into rough chunks
4 scallions, whites and greens, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger (from a peeled 2-inch piece)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons cumin
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshy ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for coating grill grates
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
Four 6-inch whole-wheat pita breads
1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced on the diagonal
1/2 cup fresh cilantro sprigs
For the burgers, heat the grill to medium-high. In a large bowl, toss the chicken with the scallions, ginger, lemon juice, paprika, cumin, cardamom, cayenne pepper, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Set aside to marinate at least 10 minutes (and up to 30 minutes).
Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped, but not pasty, 10 to 12 times. Gently form the mixture into 16 patties, each 3/4-inch thick (about 3 tablespoons of mixture per patty).
Moisten a folded paper towel with oil; grasp with tongs and rub over the grill grates to coat with oil. Season the patties with additional salt and pepper. Grill until opaque, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.
While the burgers cook, make the sauce. In a small bowl, combine yogurt and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Halve the pitas crosswise and place two patties, cucumber slices and some cilantro in each half. Serve with yogurt sauce.
(each is two pita halves and four burgers).
- Recipe from Everyday Food's “Great Food Fast,” Clarkson Potter, 2007, $24.95.
---
QUICK THAI CHICKEN CURRY
(Start to finish: 30 minutes)
For the rice:
1 cup Thai jasmine rice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Pinch salt
For the curry:
1 3/4 cups coconut milk
3 tablespoons Thai green curry paste
1 tablespoon safflower oil
1 chicken breast (about 14 ounces), cut into bite-size pieces
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
1 teaspoon Thai fish sauce
4 ounces chopped mixed fresh vegetables
Handful fresh basil leaves
To make the rice, in a large saucepan combine the rice, 1 1/2 cups cold water, butter and salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Cover and cook 20 minutes, or until the water is completely absorbed. Add more water and continue cooking if rice is not tender.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the coconut milk to a near boil. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the curry paste. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the chicken and saute until golden, about 2 minutes. Carefully add the coconut milk. Add the lime zest, fish sauce and vegetables. Stir well and reduce heat to simmer. Cook for 12 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through.
When the rice has cooked, remove it from the heat and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff it with a fork just before serving.
To serve, divide the curry between serving bowls and scatter with basil. Serve bowls of rice on the side.
Makes 2 servings.
(Recipe from Caroline Marson's “No Fuss Dinners,” Ryland Peters & Small, 2006, $24.95)
AP-ES-04-09-07 1719EDT
Banana Bran Muffins
Makes 12 muffins
Start to finish: 45 minutes
2 cups high-fiber cereal, such as All-Bran
2 cups fat-free milk, heated until hot (but not boiled)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white or standard whole-wheat flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup molasses
1/4 cup egg substitute, or 1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup canola oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 medium bananas, mashed (about 1 cup)
3/4 cup dried currants
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 12 standard muffin cups with cooking spray. Alternatively, line the muffin tins with paper cup liners.
In a large bowl, combine the cereal and milk. Let stand, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine both flours, the baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Set aside.
When the cereal mixture is reading, add the molasses, egg substitute, oil, vanilla and bananas. Mix well. Add the cereal mixture to the dry ingredients and stir just until the dry ingredients are moistened (batter will be lumpy). Stir in the currants.
Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the tops of the muffins spring back when pressed. Remove the muffins from the pan and place on a wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Nutrition information per muffin: 224 calories, 5 g total fat (0 g saturated), 6 g protein, 41 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 156 mg sodium
(Recipe adapted from Dr. Ralph Felder and Carol Colman's “The Bonus Years Diet,” Putnam Adult, 2007, $25.95)
AP-ES-04-13-07 1156EDT
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