It is asparagus season and not a minute too soon! You know it's spring when asparagus is in the supermarket for less than $4 a pound. Most people love or hate asparagus. I have yet to meet someone who is on the fence about this vegetable.

I am admittedly an asparaholic. Steamed, roasted, grilled, in salad, in pasta, in soup, it is all good as far as I'm concerned. Gourmets have prized asparagus since Roman times.

The name asparagus comes from the Greek language meaning “sprout” or “shoot” and is a member of the lily family. Widely cultivated for its tender, succulent, edible shoots, asparagus cultivation began more than 2,000 years ago in the eastern Mediterranean region. Greeks and Romans prized asparagus for its unique flavor, texture and alleged medicinal qualities. They ate it fresh when in season and dried the vegetable for use in winter.

You could say asparagus is an international food. With its high tolerance for salt and its preference for sandy soils, wild asparagus grows in such diverse places as England, central Wisconsin, Russia and Poland.

Asparagus is even depicted in ancient Egyptian writings. Asparagus has also been grown in Syria and Spain since ancient times.

In the 16th Century, asparagus gained popularity in France and England. From there, the early colonists brought it to America. Asparagus is often called the “Food of Kings.” King Louis XIV of France was so fond of this delicacy that he ordered special greenhouses built so he could enjoy asparagus all year-round.

Asparagus is very versatile. In China, asparagus spears are candied and served as special treats. It is widely popular today as a delicious, fresh and healthy vegetable.

High in vitamins B6 and C, plus fiber, folate and glutathione, an anti-carcinogen and antioxidant, asparagus is an excellent nutritional choice.

It comes in three colors: white, green or purple, although the green variety is the most common. Asparagus spears can be thick or thin. Some people prefer one kind over another, but size is not necessarily an indicator of quality.

Thicker spears may have tougher, woodier ends, but these are broken off before cooking.

The key is to select straight, firm, uniformly sized spears with closed tips. Since asparagus deteriorates rapidly, it's important to select bundles that are refrigerated or on ice.

For the same reason, asparagus should be used within two or three days of purchase, preferably sooner.

If you do need to keep it for a day or two, the best way is to place the spears upright in a bowl of cold water. You can also wrap the ends of the spears in a damp paper towel and refrigerate them.

To prepare asparagus, you will need to rinse the spears and break off the tough ends. After that, how you cook asparagus is up to you -steamed, sauteed, roasted, baked or grilled, it all works.

Take advantage of this amazing and versatile vegetable while you can. There are many recipes that combine asparagus with many other ingredients. There are soups and casseroles. I tend to be a purist when it comes to this item.

I love it steamed with lemon butter, some good olive oil or cold with a favorite vinaigrette.

It is delicious roasted, and I have included an easy and wonderful recipe for that method. Happy spring and enjoy!

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Roasted Asparagus Bundles

1 pound of asparagus

Olive oil

1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced

Pancetta or center-cut bacon

1/4 cup fine bread crumbs

1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper

Trim the asparagus and cook in boiling water a minute or two until crisp-tender. Drain, plunge into cold water to stop the cooking process, then drain well.

In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until lightly golden. Add the breadcrumbs, stir and cook until they are toasted. Place the mixture in a bowl. Add the parsley, lemon zest and Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lightly coat the asparagus with olive oil. Salt and pepper to taste.

Butter a baking dish, and preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Divide the asparagus into bundles. Wrap each with a piece of pancetta or bacon, then lay the bundles in the buttered baking dish.

Put a bit of the seasoned bread crumbs on top of each bundle. Bake for about 10 minutes or until the bacon is crispy.