The big question around the office this week was “what is couscous?” Some thought it was a grain, some thought a pasta. Whatever it is, we know we all like it and need to find out more about it. A quick call to my son, the chef, revealed the following.

Couscous is a coarsely ground semolina pasta that is a dietary staple in North African countries. It is also widely used in Middle Eastern countries and has become popular in American dishes as well. It's quick and easy to make and can be flavored by nearly any fruit, vegetable, meat, seafood, herb or spice you can imagine. The couscous grains are made from semolina or, in some regions, from coarsely ground barley or millet. The semolina is sprinkled with water and rolled with the hands to form small pellets, sprinkled with dry semolina to keep the pellets separate, and then sieved. The pellets, which are too small to be finished grains of couscous, fall through the sieve to be again sprinkled with dry semolina and rolled into pellets. This process continues until all the semolina has been formed into tiny grains of couscous.

This process is very labor intensive. Traditionally, groups of women would come together and make a large batch of couscous grains over several days. These would then be dried in the sun and used for several months. In modern times, couscous production is largely mechanized, and is sold in markets around the world. In the United States instant varieties are available. It is easily mistaken as rice, but it is actually pasta.

Like pasta, couscous hasn't much of a flavor by itself. So couscous dishes are made with flavored stocks, herbs and spices, with vegetables, dried fruits, nuts. Meat can be added or used as a topping. Most packaged couscous is considered the instant variety and will cook very quickly off the stove by absorbing a boiling liquid. However, authentic couscous will require significantly more time and a good steaming vessel. The traditional vessel is called a couscoussiere. Couscous is traditionally steamed and fluffed to separate the granules. Boiling and stirring can reduce quick-cooking couscous to a sticky, starchy mush, so be careful.

Be sure to identify which type of couscous you have purchased, instant or traditional, to properly plan cooking time. There are so many recipes for couscous that it was difficult to choose.

I have selected two that are very interesting. One sweet and one savory. Both use traditional couscous but instant can be substituted. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Sweet Couscous

Makes 8 generous servings

2 cups couscous

3 cups water

1 3/4 cups raisins

Boiling water to cover

2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, chopped

4 tablespoons slivered blanched almonds

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

2 tablespoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Sea salt to taste

3 tablespoons honey

2 oranges, peeled, white membranes removed, chopped

Place the couscous in a bowl and pour water on top. Let sit while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

Place the raisins in a bowl and pour on boiling water to cover. Let sit 15 minutes, then drain and retain the soaking water. Add water to measure 2 cups.

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed, lidded saucepan or in the bottom of a couscoussiere.

Saute the onion over medium-low heat until it begins to turn golden.

Add the raisins, almonds, dried apricots, spices, honey and soaking liquid from the raisins. Cover and simmer 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile rub the couscous between the palms of your hands, then place in the top part of the couscoussiere or in a steamer above the simmering sauce and steam 25 to 30 minutes.

Transfer to a platter and toss with the sweet, spicy sauce and the oranges. Serve at once.

- From “The Spice of Vegetarian Cooking” by Martha Rose Shulman

Mushroom and White Bean Stew over Couscous

Makes 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds small whole white mushrooms

1 1/2 cups couscous

1 pound can stewed tomatoes

1 pound canned cannellini beans (white kidney beans), rinsed and drained

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1 cup diced onions

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons dried Italian seasoning

2 cups water

2 pinches cayenne pepper

Quickly rinse and dry the mushrooms, and trim off the ends of the stems. Cut any large mushrooms in half.

Coat a large nonstick wok or 12-inch skillet with olive-oil cooking spray and preheat over medium to medium-high heat.

Add the mushrooms, onions, garlic, and Italian seasoning, and cook, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender.

While the mushrooms are cooking, place the water in a 1-quart saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the couscous and cover.

Remove from the heat, and allow to sit for 5 minutes, or until all of the water has been absorbed.

Using a knife slightly cut up the tomatoes in the can. Add the tomatoes, beans, and cayenne pepper to the mushroom mixture.

Stir to mix, and cook for about 3 minutes, or until heated through.

Stir the parsley into the couscous. Divide the couscous among individual serving plates, and top with the stew. Serve immediately, as is or topped with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.

- From “The No-Time-to-Cook Cookbook” by Joanne Abrams and Marie Caratozzolo