Burger is tough to beat

by Max Hitchcock

Thursday, January 11, 2007 9:46 AM EST

When I am truly hungry, there is one food that always comes to mind. A great burger, a few fries and I am all set. I have had the best, a Kobe beef burger and the basic fast food burger, and I love them all.
The hamburger is truly an all-American favorite. Its popularity began to rise just before World War II, and now, Americans buy almost 5 billion burgers a year. When it comes to eating away from home, no other food item has dominated the American palate and menus over the past 75 years as much as the hamburger.

Whether char-grilled, flame-broiled, steamed, fried or cooked on both sides at once in double-sided griddles or slathered with ketchup, mayonnaise, cheese or even teriyaki sauce or buried under onions, avocado or mushrooms, the hamburger is the wind beneath the wings of the restaurant industry.

The hamburger is praised for its convenience and versatility as either snack or entree. It has been given names of heroic proportion. It is known as Whopper, Big Mac, Big Deluxe, or Champburger. The average American consumes nearly 30 pounds of hamburger a year. That would be three burgers per person per week, totaling 38 billion annually. If they were placed end to end they would form a chain of hamburgers 1.8 million miles long.

Nomadic horseman laid the groundwork for the modern-day hamburger. Mongolian and Tartar warriors, who loved the taste of raw steaks, softened their filets by placing them under the saddles of their horses while riding into battle or on marauding parties. When it was time to eat, the filet would be eaten raw, having been tenderized by the saddle and the back of the horse. This is believed to be the origins of the delicacy steak tartare and the first step to the hamburger.

At the end of 1800s, European emigrants reached America on the ships of the Hamburg Lines and were served meat patties quickly cooked on the grill and placed between two pieces of bread. This is the origin of the name “Hamburger.”

There is disagreement as to who first introduced the Hamburger to the American restaurant menu. But the man who gave the hamburger its contemporary look and sought to expand the products appeal through chain operations was J. Walter Anderson, a Wichita, Kan., resident who went on to co-found the White Castle Hamburger system, the oldest continuously running burger chain.

There were many imitators over the years. But it wasn't until a milk shake machine salesman named Ray Kroc met two brothers named McDonald that the course of burger history would be forever changed. Today the product would rank right next to mom's apple pie as an American icon.

At the heart of every hamburger is the patty. Most typically people think of a hamburger patty as beef. This is a great place to start. When using ground beef to make hamburger patties you want to select the right meat. Lean ground beef like ground sirloin or the 7% fat meat will tend to make dry burgers. Remember, when you grill a burger a lot of the fat will drain off so starting out too lean can make a dry burger. But also remember that the more fat the more the burger will shrink while cooking. The 30% fat beef can shrink by as much as 25% leaving you a pretty little patty.

You also want to get a coarse grind. Finely ground meat can become soft and mushy, making the patties hard to work with and more likely to fall apart on the grill. This is also the reason you want to be careful about what you put in the patty.

Now while other meats also make a great burger, mixtures of meats make a fantastic burger. Try mixing 3 parts beef with 1 part sausage. Or you can add a lamb flavor by mixing equal parts beef and lamb. But remember when mixing meats together or in just preparing the patties for the grill, the more you handle the meat the softer it will become. Mix gently and as little as necessary.

Once you have your patties ready for the grill you need to know a few things about grilling the burger. Start with a very hot grill, as hot as it will go. Get everything ready and quickly lift the lid and gently place the patties on the grill. When the raw meat hits the hot cooking grate it will stick. It will seize the grate for dear life. If you try to turn it too early the burger will fall apart. The secret is to flip the burger the second it releases.

The process here is that as the bottom of the patty cooks the grease will create a non-stick surface on the patty and the heat from the grate will char the meat, separating it from the grate. At this point you want to lift the lid again and flip the patties, preferably to an unused part of the cooking grate. At this point the process will repeat. When the burgers have released again, flip them again and turn down the heat. It should only take about 1 minute per side to release from the grate. When you have flipped for the second time continue grilling for about 2-3 minutes. At this point there should be no pink left. Flip a third time and continue until done. This should be only about 2-3 more minutes. Remove the hamburger patty when done and let sit for a minute or two before you serve. Salt and pepper is really all you need for added flavor, but if you are the experimental type, feel free to add ingredients like different spices or flavors into the meat at any time before cooking. Again, the most important thing to remember is not to over-handle everything

If you follow this plan you should get the perfect hamburger. From here you can build on with all the toppings.

I have included a very good recipe for burgers with cheese. Enjoy!

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

1 1/2 pounds ground chuck

1 tablespoon ketchup

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 slices Monterey Jack cheese

4 hamburger buns

4 lettuce leaves

4 tomato slices

In a medium bowl, using your hands, gently combine the ground chuck with the ketchup, basil, thyme, salt, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and pepper. Gently shape into 4 patties, each about 3/4-inch thick.

Grill the patties over direct medium-high heat until medium, 10 to 12 minutes, and turning once. About a minute before you pull off the patties, place a slice of cheese on each to melt.

Grill the hamburger buns, cut side down, until toasted, about a minute or two. Put the cheeseburgers together using lettuce, tomato, and ketchup, mustard or whatever toppings you like. Serve.

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