Unusual melons: The great unknown

By Max Hitchcock

Wednesday, August 16, 2006 9:46 AM EDT

I walked into my local market and noticed in the distance what appeared to be a mountain of color. Beautiful yellows, oranges, reds and greens combined with a wonderful aroma. There were shapes I had never seen and textures I could only imagine. It was the melon bin. Not since Lewis and Clark had anyone embarked on such a brave and dangerous exploration. This was uncharted territory. Trying a new variety of melon. I felt like Indiana Jones.
I only really know the basic three, watermelon, honeydew and cantaloupe. “OK, I'm going in. If I'm not out in 30 minutes save yourself.”

After 20 minutes of smelling, squeezing and thumping, the fear of the unknown won. I left with a cantaloupe. I was defeated.

I will return again, this time armed with the knowledge and skill required.

I will be well versed in the lexicon of melons. That's a promise.

Many melons originated in the Middle East and gradually spread in popularity across Europe.

Ancient Egyptians and Romans enjoyed cantaloupes or muskmelons. Melon seeds were transported to the United States by Columbus and eventually cultivated by Spanish explorers in California.

Melon varieties are now endless. We have more melons than ever to enjoy. Some are new hybrids developed for size and sweetness. Many are old varieties that backyard seed savers and immigrants have recently introduced to farmers.

To get a good melon, you have to know what to look for. Here are some of the varieties:

€ Ambrosia Melon - This netted muskmelon is very similar to the American cantaloupe. The flesh is a deep orange and has a more intense flavor. The scent of the melon, when ripe, is very strong and appealing.

€ Butterscotch Melons - These buttery rich melons are becoming increasing popular at local farmers markets and specialty grocery stores around the country. These small melons have a pale green skin and a two-toned green and orange flesh. The green flesh nearest the rind is edible, and very sweet. Many people think the flesh tastes like butterscotch candy, which is where the name comes from. Ripe melons are paler in color with a sweet sugary aroma.

€ Casaba Melon - The casaba melon is a large melon with a thick-ridged yellow skin. The flesh is wonderfully mild and juicy in flavor, and has a very creamy vanilla-orange color. They are usually available in the mid to late fall. The easiest way to choose a ripe casaba is to look for a slightly soft blossom end.

€ Charentais Melons - Charentais melons, also called French or French Breakfast Melons are considered by many to be the most divine and flavorful melons in the world. The skin is a grayish yellow-green color and the flesh is very sweet and pale orange. The melons are typically the size of large grapefruits and weight about two pounds.

€ Cranshaw Melon - The cranshaw, or crenshaw melon as it is sometimes spelled, is a very popular and flavorful melon well known for its wonderful aroma and flavor.

Cranshaws are large oval shaped melons with a yellow-green ridged skin. The flesh is a vibrant orange-pink that has a wonderful flavor and scent. Ripe cranshaws are easy to pick out as they are perhaps the most fragrant of melons when they are ripe.

€ Emerald Jewel - These “gift melons” imported from Japan are the latest trend in flavorful attractive melons.

They are typically 3 to 4 pounds in size and have a netted brown and green skin. The flesh is a bright white and very sweet and juicy.

€ Emerald Pearl - Another “gift melon” imported from Japan, They are typically 3-4 pounds in size and have a netted green skin. The flesh is very sweet and green with a delightful crispness that almost borders on crunchy.

€ Galia Melons - These are delightful mid-east honeydew melons. They have a golden-green netted exterior and pale green flesh.

They have a wonderful aroma and sweet and juicy flavor. Generally Galia melons are riper when they have a lighter, yellow skin and a very strong sweet aroma.

€ Juan Canary Melons - The bright yellow football shaped melons are very distinctive and the cream colored flesh is widely used in salads and desserts. Ripe melons should be very firm, heavy for their size, and slightly fragrant.

€ Persian Melon - This netted skinned muskmelon has a beautiful green skin and pinky orange flesh.

They are very sweet and are slightly larger than the American Cantaloupe. Ripe Persian melons are noticeably heavier than their unripe counterparts and store very well in the refrigerator for up to a week until you are ready to use them.

€ Santa Claus Melon - Also called Christmas melon or December melon. The Santa Claus melon is very flavorful and is great for salads and other dishes.

Many varieties are quite large, and even though they look like small watermelons on the outside, on the inside they are almost exactly like honeydew melons. The ripest Santa Claus melons have soft blossom ends and a distinct yellow tinge to the skin.

€ Sprite Melons - These North Carolina specialties are finally being distributed all across the country. These tiny melons are about the size of softballs and frequently weight less than a pound.

They have a very firm and crisp apple-like flesh and the flavor is something like a mixture between pear, apple, and honeydew and is very sweet. Ripe melons have a mottled yellow skin, while unripe melons are a pale cream color.

All melons are delicious, nutritious and full of vitamins. They are the perfect snack, accompaniment with a meal or side for a sandwich.

Now that you are armed with all the facts you need. Be brave and fearless.

March into the market and tackle that mountain of melons. You will be happy that you did. I know I will. Who knows, next week it may be the Monstera Delicioso. But that's another column.

Here is a simple and delicious recipe that uses a variety of melons. Gingered Melon Compote is a great salad to serve as part of a dinner or even as a light dessert.

The dish is especially suited as a finale to Asian inspired dishes, especially those with generous doses of hot peppers. You can use cubed or melon balled honeydew, cranshaw, cantaloupe, watermelon, casaba, Juan Canary, Santa Claus, or any combination of melon that you have on hand. Enjoy.

This column has been a collaborative effort between Auburn natives chef Max Hitchcock and his mother, Susan Silverman. They can be reached at Birdscapes@adelphia.net

Gingered Melon Compote

Makes 6 servings

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons minced fresh gingerroot

6 cups cubed assorted melon

Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the limejuice and gingerroot. Chill the sauce for at least 2 hours, and then toss with the cubed melon and serve immediately. The syrup can be made up to four days in advance.

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