Q. We have a “tree of wisdom” that's dying and would like to replace it with a southern magnolia. Is there a variety that's relatively compact in width and grows only 20 to 30 feet?
A. I don't know the name “tree of wisdom,” but if your tree is dying, you are wise to remove and replace it with a tree that you will enjoy. There are evergreen southern magnolias that have fragrant flowers in summer and shiny, showy leaves year round. Two varieties that fit in smaller spaces are Little Gem and Alta (Magnolia grandiflora “Little Gem” or “Alta”). Little Gem has smaller leaves and grows like a miniature version of the species, reaching 20 feet tall and 10 feet wide in about 20 years. Alta has a columnar form and big, evergreen, southern magnolia leaves. It matures at about 20 feet tall and eight feet wide. Branches of these hybrids should be allowed to grow to the ground.
Q. I have a white hydrangea. Is it possible to change the color? What kind of plant food will enhance growth and blossoms?
A. White hydrangea flower will remain white. It is not the kind that will offer the pinks, purples and blues of big-leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla).
Q. I planted purple irises. Should I cut the leaves after they bloom?
A. Do not cut iris leaves after the flowers bloom. Let them continue growing. Cut the faded flower and encourage the plant to put energy into growth instead of producing seed. Leaves can be cut in fall when they yellow or freeze to the ground.
Q. I just dug some daffodil bulbs. Should I plant them now or wait until the fall? Where should I keep them?
A. I have found that daffodils can be forgiving and flower the next year, even if they are transplanted from one spot to another right away, without storage. If they have been out of the ground for a period of time, wait until fall to replant.
Daffodil foliage should season (become yellow or brown) before bulbs are dug. Cut off dry leaves, clean off soil and store in a dry location that has good air circulation, at about 50 degrees. The dry environment is critical to bulbs because of their susceptibility to fungus. If there are any soft or moldy bulbs, discard them. Replant only firm healthy specimens into well-drained soil.
Q. Is it safe for a weeping willow to be planted in a suburban development back yard? It is large already and growing rapidly.
A. As long as the tree is not planted so close that it will threaten a structure with falling limbs and as long as there is enough room on your property, a weeping willow will yield enjoyment for 15 to 25 years. Install where it will be easy to remove. For the greatest longevity, plant in full sun by water's edge. The catkins are ornamental in late winter and the yellow-green new growth is one of the harbingers of early spring.
Q. Bamboo came with the property we bought. Is there a strategy that works for getting rid of it?
A. Many bamboo species can become invasive weeds throwing shoots up through everything in their path. When you find a shoot, I suggest handling it in one of several ways.
€ Follow the shoot to the main clump and dig up the entire root and offshoot all the way back to the main clump. If the original clump is massive, there will be many offshoots. To keep shoots from coming back, surround the main root clump with a barrier. Dig a 24-inch trench and place metal flashing at least 18 inches into the soil with the upper lip of the flashing sticking above ground to keep the bamboo from growing over the top, or simply fill the trench with concrete.
€ Spray shoots with glyphosate, sold as Roundup or KleenUp. Reapplication might be required several times over a period of a couple months. Allow bamboo to leaf out before spraying and only treat when there is active growth. Follow all labeled instructions. The chemical will kill roots and top-growth. Sever all roots between bamboo you want to keep and what you are spraying, so glyphosate won't translocate. Be careful if you are spraying over plants you want to keep. As a non-selective herbicide, it will kill everything it contacts.
€ Mow bamboo. The first cut might have to be made with a machete or chainsaw. Keep the entire stand mowed like a lawn for a season or two, and it should die.
Joel M. Lerner is president of Environmental Design in Capitol View Park, Md. His Web site is www.gardenlerner.com
Q. I have a white hydrangea. Is it possible to change the color? What kind of plant food will enhance growth and blossoms?
A. White hydrangea flower will remain white. It is not the kind that will offer the pinks, purples and blues of big-leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla).
Q. I planted purple irises. Should I cut the leaves after they bloom?
A. Do not cut iris leaves after the flowers bloom. Let them continue growing. Cut the faded flower and encourage the plant to put energy into growth instead of producing seed. Leaves can be cut in fall when they yellow or freeze to the ground.
Q. I just dug some daffodil bulbs. Should I plant them now or wait until the fall? Where should I keep them?
A. I have found that daffodils can be forgiving and flower the next year, even if they are transplanted from one spot to another right away, without storage. If they have been out of the ground for a period of time, wait until fall to replant.
Daffodil foliage should season (become yellow or brown) before bulbs are dug. Cut off dry leaves, clean off soil and store in a dry location that has good air circulation, at about 50 degrees. The dry environment is critical to bulbs because of their susceptibility to fungus. If there are any soft or moldy bulbs, discard them. Replant only firm healthy specimens into well-drained soil.
Q. Is it safe for a weeping willow to be planted in a suburban development back yard? It is large already and growing rapidly.
A. As long as the tree is not planted so close that it will threaten a structure with falling limbs and as long as there is enough room on your property, a weeping willow will yield enjoyment for 15 to 25 years. Install where it will be easy to remove. For the greatest longevity, plant in full sun by water's edge. The catkins are ornamental in late winter and the yellow-green new growth is one of the harbingers of early spring.
Q. Bamboo came with the property we bought. Is there a strategy that works for getting rid of it?
A. Many bamboo species can become invasive weeds throwing shoots up through everything in their path. When you find a shoot, I suggest handling it in one of several ways.
€ Follow the shoot to the main clump and dig up the entire root and offshoot all the way back to the main clump. If the original clump is massive, there will be many offshoots. To keep shoots from coming back, surround the main root clump with a barrier. Dig a 24-inch trench and place metal flashing at least 18 inches into the soil with the upper lip of the flashing sticking above ground to keep the bamboo from growing over the top, or simply fill the trench with concrete.
€ Spray shoots with glyphosate, sold as Roundup or KleenUp. Reapplication might be required several times over a period of a couple months. Allow bamboo to leaf out before spraying and only treat when there is active growth. Follow all labeled instructions. The chemical will kill roots and top-growth. Sever all roots between bamboo you want to keep and what you are spraying, so glyphosate won't translocate. Be careful if you are spraying over plants you want to keep. As a non-selective herbicide, it will kill everything it contacts.
€ Mow bamboo. The first cut might have to be made with a machete or chainsaw. Keep the entire stand mowed like a lawn for a season or two, and it should die.
Joel M. Lerner is president of Environmental Design in Capitol View Park, Md. His Web site is www.gardenlerner.com
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