Tuscany: The other Finger Lakes region

By Harold Miller

Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:09 AM EST

No, the young lady in the picture (our granddaughter) is not standing on the gorge “far above Cayuga's waters” but rather on the gorge overlooking Lago di Bolsena in Tuscany. If she were blindfolded and whisked from one place to the other, she might have difficulty immediately identifying where she was. The similarities are amazing. Lakes carved out of the land, rolling hills, lush vegetation, a temperate climate, (approximately the same latitude) ample rain and a perfect combination of gentle springs and mild autumns that produce the best grapes which in turn produce the finest wines in the world.
The contrasts are also interesting. Tuscany was created ages ago by volcanoes that erupted producing molten lava, which spread over the adjacent land creating the rolling hills. Lakes formed in the craters and valleys and rich soil covered the lava (much like Hawaii). Civilization came well before Christ's birth, and the Tuscany area became the cradle of art, architecture and religion in the old world.

Likewise, the Finger Lakes region was created ages ago, but instead of volcanic action, glaciers from the ice age, slowly inched southward from the arctic region finally coming to a grinding halt in central New York. The grinding action of the glaciers pushed the glacial silt aside to form the rolling hills and rich soil. Civilization came much later in the 18th century, and our local culture is a product of the Pilgrims and the Indians. Owasco is an Indian name meaning “crossing.” And Auburn: “A beautiful place on the Plain.” Some of the earliest settlements in the new world were created on Owasco Lake's shoreline. In 1818, one of Auburn's earliest and most prominent settlers, Governor Enos Throop, built his home at what is now, Martin Point.

During a recent trip to “the other Finger Lakes region” our family stayed at an entrancing resort, high in the hills of Tuscany (officially it is in the province of Lazio but most people consider it a part of Tuscany). Castel Santacristina (info@santacristina.it) is an 18th century castle surrounded by villas and apartments located in the foothills of the Apennines and 20 miles above Orvieto. It is known as “the playground of the popes” because many popes summered here to escape the stifling heat of Rome, about an hour away. Florence, Sienna, Pisa and most of Tuscany, are also within about an hours drive from Santacristina. If you are on a driving tour (the best way to see the grandeur of Italy), this is the place to stay. Antonelli Mancini, the handsome young owner/proprietor of Santacristina (himself with a lineage to the popes) served us wine from his own vineyards. You can buy Orvietto Classico in your local wine store.

Orvietto itself provides some of the best sightseeing. This walled city sits on a high cliff overlooking the broad valley of central Italy. Ages ago a volcano blew its top, spewing lava over Orvietto much like Vesuvius did to Pompeii. The crater of that volcano became one of the largest lakes in Italy, Lago di Bolsena, which can be seen from the tower of Santacristina's castle. The walled city of Orvietto was built on a sheer cliff of lava stone and caves were constructed below. Thus, Orvietto combines all the charm of Florence, Sienna and the catacombs. It also has the required Duomo.

Touring Tuscany, as well as Italy, is all about churches - be they called Duomos, Cathedrals, Chapels or Basilicas. They served as the social centers and museums of the Holy Roman Empire where the artists and sculptors of the day - Michelangelo, DiVinci and Raphael - plied their trade. Much of the art, architecture and history of Tuscany, as well as Italy, is found in its churches.

Whether you are gazing at Lago di Bolsena from a hilltop above or gazing at Owasco Lake from Sam Adams Lane you are overlooking one of the most beautiful and most habitable regions on the planet.

As people come from all over the world to see Tuscany, likewise, they come from near and far to see the Finger Lakes and - oh yes, to partake of the finest wines the world has to offer.

Harold Miller is a businessman and Auburn native. He may be reached at hmillermod@aol.com

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